The Halogenated Solvents Industry Alliance has published an updated, comprehensive "White Paper" report on perchloroethylene, better known simply as "perc" to the drycleaning industry, where it is used by more than 80 percent of drycleaners in the United States.
HSIA's White Paper says that the total U.S. demand for perc in 1998 was approximately 344 million pounds. That includes uses in addition to drycleaning, which claimed 36 percent of the total, or 120 million pounds.
The highest usage of perchloroethylene totaling 44 percent, belonged to the category of "chemical intermediate," which refers to the usage of perc as a raw material in the manufacturing of hydrofluorocarbon (HFC) 134a, a popular alternative to chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) refrigerants.
Other categories of perc usage included automotive aerosols (10 percent); metal cleaning degreasing (6 percent); and miscellaneous (4 percent).
The HSIA White Paper summarized the conclusions of many studies that examined the health effects on humans and animals as a result of perc exposure, in addition to listing the various carcinogenicity classifications and exposure limits for perc.
Health effects on humans
HSIA's report states, "Under certain conditions, overexposure to perchloroethylene may cause central nervous system (CNS) and liver effects. Prolonged exposure to concentrations of 200 parts per million (ppm) or more has been associated with dizziness, confusion, headache, nausea, and irritation of the eyes and mucous tissue. At higher exposures (>600 ppm) these symptoms are intensified. Prolonged exposure to extremely high levels (>1500 ppm) may lead to unconsciousness due to anesthesia and, in extreme cases, death from respiratory depression."
The White Paper findings also noted that there were reports of "mild alterations of liver or kidney functions" in incidents of occupational exposure, yet other studies found no "detectable effect." In one case, human volunteers were exposed to 150 ppm, 7.5 hours per day, five days a week for a period of 11 weeks with no effects to the participants' livers or kidneys.
A number of studies were also done on the effects of perc in terms of genotoxicity and fertility rates for humans.
HSIA indicated that several tests examining the ability of perc and its major metabolites to cause genetic damage showed "an absence of genotoxicity."
The White Paper also concluded that the fertility of female drycleaning workers is not affected. Studies indicated a variety of findings.
One report did suggest that the "time to become pregnant might be somewhat longer" for female drycleaning workers. Another study found a slight increase in the fertility rates among wives of drycleaning employees.
A study sponsored by the Health and Safety Executive (HSE) of the United Kingdom pointed to a higher rate of miscarriages among workers operating cleaning equipment in comparison to the general population. However, the UK Department of Health could not attribute the anomaly specifically to perc exposure because previous studies had reported that physical activities, such as operating drycleaning machinery, were a risk factor for miscarriage.
Health effects on animals
HSIA's White Paper noted that three of five carcinogenicity studies on laboratory animals showed "a significant increase in liver tumors on mice."
A 1977 study by the National Cancer Institute (NCI) showed a significant increase in liver tumors on both genders of mice; however a perc inhalation study performed by the Dow Chemical Company found "no significant differences between the exposed and control animals."
Another inhalation study done in 1986 by the National Toxicology Program (NTP) concluded that there was "clear evidence" of carcinogenicity in mice and male rats, but only "some evidence" of carcinogenicity in female rats.
HSIA recommends caution when it comes to interpreting the results of such studies.
The HSIA White Paper stated, "The relevance of these results to humans, however, has been questioned because of research indicating that the mechanism of liver tumor induction in mice does not apply to humans. The available epidemiology studies show no consistent link between exposure to perchloroethylene and an increased risk of cancer in humans."
Carcinogenicity
HSIA's report also broke down perc's carcinogenicity classification by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH), the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the National Toxicology Program (NTP).
IARC recently classified perc in Group 2A, which is defined as a substance that is considered "probably carcinogenic to humans." HSIA's White Paper denotes, "IARC, following its own restrictive classification scheme, concluded that the combination of the results of some of the epidemiology studies provide 'limited' evidence of carcinogenicity in humans."
Perc was classified as "reasonably anticipated" to be a carcinogen by NTP who believes that "sufficient" evidence of carcinogenicity has been discovered during animal experimentation.
According to the White Paper perc summary, ACGIH classifies perc in its own category of A3, or "animal carcinogen."
ACGIH stated, "Available evidence suggests that the agent is not likely to cause cancer in humans except under uncommon or unlikely routes or levels of exposure.
As for the Environmental Protection Agency's Advisory Board classification, perc is considered on a "continuum" between Categories B2 and C.
The EPA's Advisory Board concluded that "the available scientific information does not suggest to us the same regulatory responses that would be appropriate for a chemical whose bioassay responses were clearly relevant to human cancer."
Exposure limits
Currently, the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) permissible exposure limit (PEL) for perc is 100 ppm for an 8-hour time weighted average (TWA).
OSHA has also set the ceiling limit at 200 ppm and the peak limit at 300 ppm.
However, ACGIH recommends a threshold limit value (TLV) of 25 ppm for an 8-hour TWA, and 100 ppm for a short-term exposure limit (STEL) of 15 minutes.
The updated version of HSIA's White Paper on perc is available from HSIA's website located at www.hsia.org or by calling HSIA's office at (202) 775-0232.
While most cleaners wouldn't be shocked to hear that the general public knows little about drycleaning processes, if they heard what customers think goes on in a drycleaning plant, they might be surprised.
Listen to what some consumers said when asked to describe the drycleaning process:
Those comments came in interviews of 30 drycleaning customers conducted by researchers from Carnegie Mellon University in Pittsburgh, PA, in the course of their study, "Perceptions of PCE Use by Drycleaners and Their Customers." The study was undertaken to determine the knowledge and attitudes of drycleaners and the general public concerning perc exposure and risk.
The interviewers found that few customers really had any idea what goes on when asked for their views on exposure to chemicals from drycleaning. ("I don't know how drycleaning works" was a common initial reaction in the interviews.)
The "dry" part of drycleaning is the source of some confusion. While the Carnegie Mellon interviewers found that some customers correctly interpreted "dry" as the use of chemicals and the absence of water, others took it to mean the absence of any liquid phase chemicals. They envisioned some kind of spraying process as a way to clean without using a liquid.
Fewer than half of the interviewees knew that drycleaning uses a machine similar to a normal washing machine. While most assumed that some sort of chemical is used, only five out of the 30 understood that clothes are actually soaked in it. Twelve thought a chemical is applied by some kind of spraying process.
Most of the customers said they knew of no health, safety or environmental concerns about drycleaning, and of the 13 who said they were aware of some concerns, only five offered any specific beliefs. Two said they heard of the Consumers Union study of indoor air contamination in apartments above drycleaners, for example.
Overall, the drycleaning customers "knew next to nothing about the drycleaning process," the researchers said.
"Although they (customers) had little concern about PCE (perc) exposure, they were, however, open to the possibility of such concerns, knowing that some sort of chemical is involved. These gaps in knowledge provide opportunities to reduce exposure by providing behaviorally relevant information."
The knowledge gap
In separate interviews with drycleaners, the researchers learned that few customers ever inquire about health concerns or any other technical matters. Perhaps, the report suggests, drycleaners should take the lead in filling the "knowledge gap" before someone else does.
"The content of these messages," the report said, "should focus on the most significant gaps between the determinants of risk and current beliefs.
Before those messages, however, drycleaners themselves need to be better informed, the report said. Drycleaners, the researchers found in their interviews, "showed relatively little concern regarding PCE use and were prepared with specific reasons to dismiss any concerns."
Those answers were not always good ones. It's common, for example, for a cleaner to say something to the effect that exposure to perc "hasn't made me sick."
Such a response, the report said, is weak. "Not having observed adverse effects of drycleaning does not prove that there is no cancer risk. For small risks, the causal link between exposure and effect can hardly be established through studies, much less through personal observation."
"Even if such answers could satisfy customers with superficial knowledge, they may erode credibility among more knowledgeable ones," the report noted.
The importance of giving solid, accurate and believable information was underscored in the report as follows:
"Currently drycleaners appear to have fairly good relationships with their customers, such that customers would turn to them for information should concerns arise. These relations might be threaten if drycleaners responses were perceived as inaccurate, incomplete of self-serving."
The Occupational Safety and Health Administration's ergonomics standards drew immediate criticism and opposition from the International Fabricare Institute once the long-delayed proposal was released despite opposition by the industry and some members of Congress.
OSHA has been working on regulations covering ergonomics, which is defined as the science of accommodating a work station or task to an employee's physical needs in order to prevent injury, for a decade. An OSHA ergonomics proposal issued in 1995 was withdrawn after it met with a storm of protest.
IFI said its objections to the new proposal center on the two following points:
IFI said the standard covers all businesses except those engaged in construction, maritime activities or agriculture. If any employee reports an "ergonomic injury," management must comply with the standard. Unlike many other federal rules, there are no exemptions or reduced requirements for business based on size or number of employees.
Drycleaners, then, should consider themselves covered, IFI said.
The proposal requires employers who report an "ergonomic injury" to make changes in the workplace. Employers would also be required to teach employees the proper ergonomic method for performing a task. The goal is to prevent injury by teaching employees what to look for, early warning signs and how to prevent an injury from occurring.
Employers who have employees who do heavy lifting are required to provide this training regardless of whether an injury is reported.
IFI cited two "particularly onerous requirements that would affect drycleaners."
One is the medical removal provision. This provides 100 percent of net pay and benefits for six months while a worker recovers from an injury if that worker is on "light duty." If the individual is not working at all, he or she would still receive 90 percent of net pay and benefits.
"This is more generous than most workers' compensation plans, which typically provide two-thirds of an individual's pre-tax wages," IFI noted.
The other is the provision that says only one incident is required to trigger a redesign of the workplace.
"A strong criticism of the standard from industry is that it is not sufficiently specific, it is too broad, and the employers will have difficulty in determining whether their response or plan is adequate and what type of situations need addressing," IFI said.
IFI has joined the National Ergonomics Coalition, an industry group that is taking an active role in this issue.
IFI also noted that Sen. Kit Bond (R-MO) has introduced legislation to stop OSHA from enacting a standard until the National Academy of Science complete a study on the scope of ergonomic problems. The study, which got underway about a year ago, is not expected to be finished until next year.
At the earliest, OSHA will not finalize its standard until 2001, and there would be time after that for businesses to comply. In the meantime, IFI will submit its comments on the proposal to OSHA once it finishes its complete review.
OSHA says an ergonomics standard is needed because work-related musculoskeletal disorders (WMSDs) are a leading cause of lost workday injuries and workers' compensation costs. Such injuries account for 34 percent of all lost-workday injuries and illnesses, and for $1 out of every $3 spent for workers' compensation, OSHA said. Annual costs in workers; compensation range from $15 to $20 billion.
OSHA said that it will take into account the NAS study "and all research that becomes available during the rulemaking process to ensure that the ergonomics program standard is based on the best available evidence."
Information on the ergonomics standard, including results of the NAS study when it becomes available, can be found on OSHA's web site: www.osha.gov. Access the ergonomics page by scrolling down. Under Outreach, click on Ergonomics.
The OSHA web site also has information on ergonomics rulemaking activity in specific states and foreign countries.
BY BILL BOHANNON
How much does it cost to produce an average piece of drycleaning or a laundered shirt?
The real question that matters is: how much did it cost you?
As the new year begins, many of us are getting ready to submit our paperwork to our accountants. After the information is compiled it provides the perfect opportunity to review costs for the prior year.
To help determine those costs, I have developed a plant cost allocation model for use as a guideline.
While prices, labor costs and other operating costs will vary greatly from region to region, the model can be adapted to fit most situations. Cost allocation is an inexact science and users are encouraged to adapt the model to fit their specific operation
Model plant
COST ALLOCATION MODEL
50,000 Shirts 50,000 Pieces DC
Revenue
Total @$1.25 Ratio @$3.75 Shirt DC
Gross sales $250,000 $62,500 $187,500 $1.25 $3.75
Expenses
Labor 40% $100,000 $42,000 42/58 $58,000 $.84 $1.16
PayrollTaxes 4% $10,000 $4,200 42/58 $5,800 $.08 $.12
Supplies 6% $15,000 $6,000 40/60 $9,000 $.12 $.18
Utilities 4% $10,000 $5,000 50/50 $5,000 $.10 $.10
Rent 10% $25,000 $10,000 40/60 $15,000 $.20 $.30
R&M 3% $7,500 $3,000 40/60 $4,500 $.06 $.09
Dep/Reserve 4% $10,000 $4,000 40/60 $6,000 $.08 $.12
Insurance 2% $5,000 $1,750 35/65 $3,250 $.03 $.07
Misc. 4% $10,000 $3,500 35/65 $6,500 $.07 $.13
Advertising 3% $7,500 $1,875 25/75 $5,625 $.04 $.11
Totals 80% $200,000 $81,825 $118,175 $1.62 $2.38
Profit/Loss 20% $50,000 -$18,825 $68,825
Our model plant processed 100,000 total pieces annually: 50,000 pieces of drycleaning at an average of $3.75 per piece and 50,000 laundered shirts at an average of $1.25 each. Total revenue for the plant is $250,000 per year.
Note: Revenue was not considered for cost allocation in the model unless a change in revenue had a direct impact on final cost. Cost allocation using the selling price and transferring percentages from your profit and loss statement is not recommended because it will not provide an accurate assessment of actual costs. The use of that method has the potential to greatly distort conclusions.
Labor cost. The model assumes total labor costs of 40 percent with an average wage of $8 per hour. This total includes vacation pay as well as paid holidays. Total hours worked were 12,500 at $8 per hour average, totaling $100,000 for the year.
The plant processed 100,000 pieces during the year in 12,500 hours of paid labor. Payroll hours were then converted to minutes. 12,500 hours x 60 minutes = 750,000 total minutes. It took 750,000 total minutes in payroll to process 100,000 garments for an average of 7.5 minutes per piece
For most cleaners there is a 60- to 90-second difference in production time needed to produce a laundered shirt and a piece of drycleaning. The time needed for customer service labor is nearly equal for either a laundered shirt or a piece of drycleaning.
Our model assumes processing a piece of drycleaning will take an average of 90 seconds longer than a laundered shirt. It also allows for a $1 per hour wage difference between drycleaning production wages and shirt production wages.
With a 90-second difference between processing a piece of drycleaning and a laundered shirt, the model assumes 8.25 minutes per drycleaning piece at $8.50 per hour and 6.75 minutes per shirt at $7.50 per hour.
In total, laundered shirts required 42 percent of our $100,000 in total payroll or $42,000. Drycleaning labor costs were 58 percent of the $100,000 or $58,000 total.
Payroll taxes. Payroll taxes also included employers FICA, FUTA and Medicare costs as well workers' compensation premiums. These were allocated at the same ratio as payroll.
Supplies. Allocation for supplies was based on the estimated supplies needed to process an average shirt order.
Allowances were also made to cover a portion of other office supplies and normal maintenance items like pads and covers. The remaining balance was charged to the drycleaning side.
Utilities. Cost for utilities were assessed equally per piece. While laundered shirts require less finishing time, they use the bulk of water consumed as well as nearly all the energy needed to provide hot water. Laundered shirts also require higher boiler operating pressures which result in higher utility costs.
Rent. Rent was allocated based on estimated floor space, consumption of dedicated equipment production areas and a portion of shared space. If rent is percentage based, then cost should be allocated accordingly.
Repair/maintenance and depreciation/reserves. Assessment for repairs/maintenance and depreciation/reserves were based on the value of the dedicated equipment and a portion of the shared equipment.
Insurance, advertising and miscellaneous expenses. Allocation for insurance, advertising and miscellaneous expenses were based on best estimates after consideration of expense origin.
Conclusion. Profits from the drycleaning operation were negatively impacted by substantial losses in the shirt laundry operation. If changes in the shirt laundry operation can be implemented to eliminate the loss, overall profits could be increased by nearly 40 percent.
Bill Bohannon is the owner of Hollin Hall Cleaners in Alexandria, VA. He can be reached by phone at (703) 765-5518 or e-mail at bohannon@tidalwave.net. He will be conducting seminars on this and related topics for the MidAtlantic Association of Cleaners. For more information, call MAC (800) 235-8360.Now that it is finally 2000, maybe all of the Y2K hype will die down and we can all get back to our lives.
Assuming you didn't just lose all of your computer files on New Year's Day, you can now focus your energies on the bottom line for your drycleaning plant. Forget the Barton Bill for a moment. Turn the TV off (so as to not be bombarded with the catch-phrase "Suddenly drycleaning onlyŠ isn't." Don't even open the newspaper -- who knows what negative publicity awaits for cleaners worldwide.
Just sit back, relax, and try to think of a way to keep your customer base from diminishing. Ask yourself, how do I retain my good customers?
OK, maybe you can't do that and relax at the same time, but it might not be as difficult as you think.
Though cleaners have a lengthy list of woes and foes, there are still a large number of people who visit your store on a regular basis, providing a steady flow of income. These people are one of the biggest reasons why you are still in business, and you can never afford to take them for granted. You might have a dozen problems competing for your attention all at the same time, but if you neglect a good customer, even for only a brief instance, you will lose a lifelong source of income.
Are you doing enough to cater to your best customers' needs? Are they greeted by name? Are they always treated with kindness and respect? Do they feel confident when they drop off their favorite article of clothing? The answer to all of these questions needs to be yes.
After all, somebody will inevitably offer a quicker turnaround time or offer a lower price, but that matters less to a customer who enjoys an excellent quality of service. After all, people are less likely to shop around for another option when they are content with their current choice. Yet, even if you do provide an excellent quality of service, it might not be enough to keep your best customers.
In this month's National Clothesline, we have two columns that focus on this dilemma. Stan Golomb's column discusses an industry trend reversal that has cleaners catering to the small percentage of their customers who provide a large percentage of their overall business. Dennis McCrory demonstrates how cleaners can go the extra mile for their clientele as he discusses loyalty programs designed to retain your best customers.
So, sit back, relax, and enjoy -- unless, of course, you are shopping for a Y2K-compliant computer.
The study by three researchers at Carnegie Mellon University in Pittsburgh, "Perceptions of PCE Use by Dry Cleaners and their Customers," offered few surprises, but it is instructive nonetheless.
It's not surprising, for example, to learn that customers don't know much about what actually happens when they leave their clothes in the care of a drycleaner. Nor is it really surprising that, despite the high profile efforts of a few people and organizations, customers aren't particularly concerned that drycleaning poses any risks to their health or environment. Considering those revelations in the study, maybe it's not surprising, either, that drycleaners don't spend much time talking to their customers about these issues.
But maybe they should, because the researchers also found that, while customers may not be concerned now, that could change if they are given new information. That information could come from any source -- a self-proclaimed savior of the planet; an "institute" seeking funding for "studies;" misinformed or sensation-driven media; or even (and perhaps the worst case) a competitor who thinks he can elevate himself by denigrating the rest of the industry.
The best source for information is you. The researchers found that customers already consider the drycleaner an expert. But if you remain silent, you could end up surrendering that status to any one who sounds credible. And not only do you not know where that attack might come from, you don't even know when. So secure your position now in the eyes of your customers as not only an expert in caring for their clothes but also an expert in caring for the environment. You will be doing both yourself and your customers a favor by making sure they have good information. Stop the misinformation before it gets started.
Doing business with limited knowledge and skill is about as difficult as trying to thread a needle in the dark. Businesses flounder less when decisions are made with knowledgeable thinking. Then ideas on "how-to" will come intuitively. Risks will bring new ideas and opportunities.
When risks are taken by the inexperienced, serious mistakes will be made. Intelligent risks are taken knowing that some risk is involved.
Knowing that, the intelligent risk taker first starts with a "thought-out" process, then after mental evaluation, practical steps are taken. Having done that, the odds for success are greater than failure.
Business learning is an ongoing process in which success has the opportunity to follow and stay the course.
Without knowledge and devotion, business could be a precarious venture and more dependent on chance, which is likened to winning the lottery. Risks buffered with knowledge are more predictable than chance. Losers take chances. Winners take risks.
By not taking risks to implement new ideas or methods for fear of mistakes, progress reverts into regression or stagnation. Nothing happens in a motionless environment. Business cannot survive when enervated. It is better to make the mistake than do nothing at all.
Remember the encouraging words that spur us on: "If once you don't succeed, try, try again."
Nothing that you want just happens. Don't quit. Find out why, then try again. If that doesn't work, pick up the phone. Someone out there has an answer for your problem.
Being smart is not enough to be successful in business. Business is dependent upon people. Drycleaning customers are not the silent shoppers that you find in supermarkets. Drycleaning customers ask questions. When they quit asking, they quit being customers. Where else would you hear these words: "Did the stain come out?"
Good customer relations begin when both customer and counter personnel asks questions. Customers want to know what they are getting and for what they are paying. The response should be intelligent and factual.
Next question: If you were the customer, would you be satisfied with the kind of service that you provide, or would you be more particular with your own personal cleaning? If the latter is so, then the customer is being cheated.
Looking at this from a different perspective, when a chef tastes his cooking he is tasting for his customers and not for himself. But if it is not to his liking, it won't be served.
Through all the years of drycleaning, one word remains unheard. That word is client. Now the word client defines a person who asks for professional advice. When asked, do we give such advice? We should.
Documented factual information is available through International Fabricare Institute and Neighborhood Cleaners Association-International and many consultants in the drycleaning industry.
Years ago, allied trades people encouraged their customers to subscribe to trade magazines and trade newspapers. They also encouraged drycleaners to belong to institutions or associations of learning. This, of course, created a strong bond between sales people and their customers. The people in sale at that time wanted their customers to succeed. Today they are running by the numbers. They think the more calls they make the more sales they make, which is not true. Calls don't make sales. Selling makes sales.
Hit and run selling doesn't build good-will. Sales people should be professional. To become professional, their knowledge of the industry is important. They should know their products and the best use of those products. They should be able to demonstrate verbally and visually, and shouldn't be begging for an order. And above all, they should be aware of their customers' needs and wants.
When salespeople and customers push the leaning fence together, success for both is given a boost. A boost is better than being kicked by failure.
One of the most frustrating situations for a salesman to be in, is when a customer listens but doesn't believe.
Bill Bogus is president of Textile Restoration Services Inc. in Laurel, MD. He can be reached at (301) 776-4961.BY ROBERT STEWART
For years we felt we understood the target market for leather cleaning.
Wrong! What changed our thinking was the market consultant firm we retained.
During the 1990s we knew that imports of leather and suede apparel had reached all-time highs, topping 25 million garments annually in a number of years.
While we had no reliable count of domestic production, we knew that whatever numbers existed only contributed to the total pieces in the market place.
What we didn't know -- and what we wanted to learn -- was why more of these pieces were not being cleaned. Disparity between sales of new pieces and their after-care was growing disproportionately -- but why?
Meetings with the consultants suggested we needed to do what is referred to as a focus group study.
Essentially this meant convening groups of people into a meeting room where they would be interviewed -- en masse -- by a moderator.
There were other criteria, of course. The participants should own leather or suede apparel. Further, it was decided that we would do two groups: Group 1 would own these garments, but would not have had them cleaned -- ever. Group 2, it was decided, would own these garments, but would have had them cleaned within the past two years.
Each group would be interviewed for 11Ž2 hours, filmed, and the data would be collected for use.
Obviously the participants were paid for their time, and none of them knew the reason they had been chosen.
The consultants felt that 10 to 12 people should be each group's size, and set about to arrange for the participants.
Before the groups assembled, a meeting was held with the moderator for the purpose of providing direction for the questions to ask and topics to discuss.
Here it was essential to provide good direction that would help us understand future marketing needs.
It's a pleasure to watch, from behind one-way glass, a good moderator in action. The woman who performed this function for our groups was terrific. She maintained direction even when the group began to stray, and we received our data.
We learned a number of things from this effort, and the results were not strictly confined to leather and suede. Often, there was overflow to the general drycleaning industry. Here we will share our conclusions.
Quality, expectations and experience
As would be expected there was a concern for quality from the group with previous cleaning experience. And, with a group of 12, their expectations and results covered a wide spectrum.
Most had been pleased. That is to say that of the 12, eight felt their past cleaning experience met expectations. Of this eight, some had cleaned more than one garment.
For remainder the following observations were noted:
Lingering chemical smell in a jacket.In this instance the owner indicated she'd had a garment cleaned more than one year prior to the focus study. It looked OK, but had what she described as a "chemical smell." She hung the garment outside to air out, but the smell persisted. The garment now hangs in her closet and she will no longer consider wearing it.
"Shrunken skirt" was the result from another lady.Because it was suede, she would never buy another suede. When queried if she felt leather would be a better choice, she indicated that it would likely be superior to suede.
"Ruined, terrible color loss" described the experience of one of the men.Apparently his dark blue suede/sweater had been cleaned and delivered back to him a different color. His opinion was that suede could not be properly cleaned.
"Ruined" was the conclusion of another lady, describing a suede jacket she'd had cleaned.Color and feel were destroyed. And buttons were missing. She had another suede jacket she said she would only wear for good, and would not consider cleaning.
Other topics the groups unearthed required study. Issues such as why garment owners had never had garments cleaned, price, and general knowledge regarding awareness of leather cleaning had to be covered and were. These will be expanded in future articles, along with conclusions drawn from the studies.
Whether you are cleaning your own suedes and leathers or sending them to a professional processor, you need to spend time examining their condition in the presence of the garment owner.
Common sense should tell you that many of the questions that arose when the garment was returned could have been predicted and eliminated with better examination.
Also, a thorough examination will make the garment owner more certain that you care about how their clothes are treated.
Color. Look beneath the collar or lift the pocket flaps. The color you see will be the garment's original.
If it is different here than the surrounding, exposed areas, the original color has changed (faded, oxidized).
Garment owners must be shown the original color and advised that the garment will be restored to, or near, this shade. The original color will be the objective when the garment is re-colored.
Professional cleaning will be followed by re-coloring, as required. In some cases the owner may wish to retain the worn or faded shade.
It is important to convey this message to the professional leather cleaner!
Linings. Suede and leather garments too often use lining materials that are not as durable as the leather.
Worn-through linings are commonly found in collar, pocket and cuff areas. Mechanical action in processing can further erode these areas.
Garment owners should be shown the worn lining areas and informed that further damage may occur in processing.
Re-lining is an expensive option, but may be the only remedy available where linings are tattered.
Don't expect your leather cleaner to provide free re-linings to offset you overlooking the obvious.
Buttons and other fasteners. Fancy buttons, zipper pulls, snaps and other hardware items are common in leather and suede garments, just as they may be with textile articles.
Attempts to replace broken or lost items is a time-consuming, money losing proposition, particularly when the item was missing from the garment at the time of receipt.
We all break, or lose fasteners. When we do we are expected to replace them, which we also do. But when they are missing or damaged on the incoming piece none of us wants to have the expense of replacing them for free.
Thorough examination of garments in the customer's presence will detect damage. They must be made aware that remedies will cost extra, if they are desired.
Like linings, zippers used in making leather and suede garments are too often chosen wrongly for the task they are expected to provide. Plastic zippers are a poor choice, as are lightweight metal zippers.
All zippers should be tested in the garment owner's presence. Are the tabs loose? Does the slide work properly? Are teeth missing? Is there a fancy pull that is damaged?
The customer must be shown damage where it exists, and provided with options available.
Good, high quality zippers are expensive. And it takes a good deal of time to install one.
Don't be held responsible for what could have been prevented with a little extra time!
Robert Stewart is president of Kirk's Suede-Life Inc. based in Chicago, IL. He can be reached at (312) 733-6611. The company's web site is www.suedelife.com.Based on the experience of company representatives at various industry trade shows, Dow Chemical came up with a list of the 10 most frequently asked questions -- and the company's answers. What follows are those questions and answers, as published in a recent issue of Spot News, Dow's newsletter for drycleaners.
1. Is perc going to be phased out?
No! When some chlorinated solvents and chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) were phased out several years ago, that was done to protect the stratospheric ozone layer.
Perc, on the other hand, does not deplete the ozone layer, and is approved by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) as an alternative to solvents which do.
Society demands, however, and regulations require, that all chemicals, including perc, be handled in such a way as to protect people and the environment.
2. Regulations on perc all seem to be based on studies that claim perc is an animal carcinogen. Why hasn't Dow done the studies to prove perc is not a human carcinogen?
Unfortunately, it's impossible to prove a negative. No one can prove absolutely that something does not cause cancer. Through our trade association, the Halogenated Solvents Industry Alliance (HSIA), Dow funds independent research to help improve our understanding of the toxicological properties of perc, including any potential carcinogenic properties. These include studies to understand why and how rats and mice metabolize perc differently than humans, in order to help explain to regulators why the cancer studies on animals can't be extrapolated to humans. In addition, we are working with European and Japanese solvents associations to do a study which will answer questions about perc's relations to liver, kidney and esophageal cancer.
3. What is Dow's position on the safety of using perc?
When used properly and with appropriate safety controls, perc poses no risk to health or the environment.
4. Why does perc cost so much?
The price of perc depends on global supply/demand balances. Today, the typical price of perc to the U.S. drycleaner ranges from about $6.50 to $8 per gallon, depending on transportation costs. Given the efficiency of perc, this is an excellent value for the money. With today's modern equipment, perc costs less than one cent for each pound of clothes cleaned, and represents much less than one percent of a drycleaner's operating costs.
5. How does the Closed-Loop Delivery System for Dowper solvent work?
6. How can I get Dowper delivered by this system?
More than 70 percent of Dow's distributors in North America can deliver perc today via the Closed-Loop Delivery System. And by mid-year 2000 we expect that all of them can. Speak to your distributor about getting your deliveries by the system.
7. Why should I have perc delivered with the Closed-Loop Delivery System?</p>
8. Will it cost me more to get perc delivered by the Closed-Loop Delivery System?
No. The price of perc to the drycleaner is independent of how the distributor delivers it You do, however, have to purchase the fitting for your machine and install it. Talk to your distributor of Dowper solvent about how to get fittings, a good value for your peace of mind.
9. Does Dow support the Barton Bill?
10. Why hasn't Dow developed a new drycleaning solvent?
Dow has an extensive corporate research and development group investigating new chemicals. In addition, we also support academic research at many universities. To date, however, we have not discovered any new product that provides a combination of technical, economic and safety features which match or improve on perc.
The International Fabricare Institute has hired Patricia Williams to serve as its first full-time lobbyist.
Williams, whose title will be IFI's vice president of government affairs, recently served as senior vice president of public policy at the Silver Council. For IFI and on the industry's behalf, she will "aggressively work the halls of Congress as well as the various agencies that regulate the cleaning industry," said IFI CEO Bill Fisher.
"Our immediate agenda is to look at many of the environmental issues," Williams said, stressing that she will be "looking at the big picture as it affects small businesses."
One item that she will devote attention to is the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) proposed ergonomics standard. Williams described it as an "umbrella that covers everything."
Williams will also keep up on various other legislative and regulatory issues -- "handling messes in Washington," as she puts it.
Williams earned a J.D. from the George Washington National Law Center, a master's degree in marketing and public relations from American University, and a bachelor's degree in marketing and communications from Boston College.
She is a member of the Environmental Protection Agency's National Advisory Committee for the Commission for Economic Cooperation, a group that attempts to incorporate economic and environmental cooperation among the United States, Canada and Mexico.
She also has worked as a legislative representative for the National Wildlife Federation and has practiced environmental law in the Washington, DC area, including a stint as an enforcement attorney for EPA.
A DCCS computer users' group met for the first time in San Francisco, CA, in October with Brooksher Banks of Vantage International as the facilitator.
The goal of the group is to maximize the exchange of information and build a base of knowledge for participating DCCS users.
User group meetings provide a forum for generating practical advice that the participants can use in their daily operations.
Vantage International, in cooperation with DCCS, is offering expertise in the effective use of point-of-sale computer systems and will facilitate the quarterly meetings.
Methods for Management Inc., a drycleaning industry consulting firm, will provide Vantage International with support and consultative skill training.
Jeff Markman of DCCS, who attended the San Francisco meeting, said that four more groups will be started up this year.
Each will be grouped geographically with no competing members in the same group.
Enrollment will be on a first-come, first-served basis. For information, call Vantage International, (510) 758-8467.
The International Fabricare Institute will offer its Certified Environmental Drycleaner (CED) examination in Korean for the first time this year.
The CED is one of three professional certifications offered through IFI; Certified Professional Drycleaner (CPD) and Certified Professional Wetcleaner (CPW) are the others.
"Cleaners who make an investment in IFI's certification program are showing their customer and colleagues that they care about professionalism and quality service," IFI said in announcing the next round of examinations.
Examinations are given twice a year. Registration must be completed by Feb. 21 for the next examination which will be given April 1. A second examination date will be scheduled in October. Each exam consists of 150 questions and takes about four hours to complete.
The CED examination covers environmental subjects -- regulations, waste handling and safe operating procedures for drycleaning equipment. The test fee is $175 for IFI members and $275 for non-members.
The CPD test covers business management, customer service, fibers and fabrics and the drycleaning process. The test fee is $295 for IFI members and $395 for non-members.
The CPW exam tests cleaners on their level of knowledge of operating procedures for wetcleaning to provide effective and environmentally efficient processing of garments with the best possible results for customers. The fee for the CPW test is $295 for IFI members and $395 for non-members.
The test fees include a comprehensive self-study guide to help prepare for the exams.
To register, contact the Professional Testing Corp., (212) 356-0660 or visit the PTC web site: www.ptcny.com.
Applicants may also call IFI (800) 638-2627, ext. 144 or (301) 622-1900; or send e-mail to education@ifi.org.
Ed Boorstein and Joseph Waite became the first cleaners to obtain certification in all three areas offered by the International Fabricare Institute.
They were among eight individuals who passed the Certified Professional Wetcleaner examination in October. Both previously had attained Certified Professional Drycleaner and Certified Environmental Wetcleaner status.
Boorstein is the owner of Prestige Cleaners in Silver Spring, MD. Waite owns Platinum Coast Dry Cleaner Inc. in Naples, FL.
"Ed Boorstein and Joe Waite have set a milestone that we hope many other cleaners will emulate," said Mary Scalco, IFI's vice president of education.
"Cleaners who make the commitment to prepare for the certification exam and then pass it have earned a special distinction that signals their professionalism has reached a new level," she added.
The United States Mint announced that the final metal alloy combination for the new Golden Dollar effectively matches the electromagnetic signature of the Susan B. Anthony Dollar (SBA).
The new alloy is a three-layer "clad" system of manganese brass and copper, intentionally designed in order to produce an attractive coin that is golden in color, and, at the same time, matches the physical specifications, both size and weight, of the Susan B. Anthony coin.
Therefore, vending and transit machines that are programmed to accept the SBA dollar coin will also recognize the new Golden Dollar coin. Since both coins read the same, the coin-operated industry will be saved the cost of retrofitting hundreds of thousands of machines.
"This was a tough challenge," said U.S. Mint Director Phillip N. Diehl. "On the one hand, we wanted to create a new dollar coin that "works" like the SBA in the thousands of vending machines now accepting the SBA. On the other hand, we had to produce a coin that looked very different to consumers and would not be confused with the quarter. It was a tall order, but we pulled it off."
Some of the expected benefits of using the new coin, according to U.S. Mint officials, include an increase in vending machine sales, a reduction of money handling costs and a reduction of service repair costs associated with dollar bills.
Another advantage of the new coin is that its new unique alloy properties are resistant to slugging.
The U.S. Mint has conducted market research that pointed to the following conditions:
Authorized by the United States Coin Act of 1997, the new Golden Dollar will replace the Susan B. Anthony coin in March. The Mint is planning a major consumer awareness and education campaign to foster acceptance of the new coin. The campaign will include nationwide television, radio and print advertising, retail and banking partnerships, business-to-business marketing efforts and an extensive public relations program.
The dollar design
The design of the Golden Dollar pays tribute to the Native American Sacagawea -- the Shoshone Indian woman who acted as an interpreter and diplomat for the Lewis and Clark expedition in the early 1800s.
The reverse side of the coin features a soaring eagle and 17 stars that represent the number of states in the U.S. at the time of the Lewis and Clark expedition.
The coin is gold in color, has a smooth edge and a wider border, all of which serve to set it apart from other coin currency.
The Mint has undertaken extensive consumer testing to be certain that the new dollar coin will be easily discernible from the quarter and the SBA coin. Similarities between the size and feel of the quarter and the "Suzie" were believed to account for at least some of the consumer resistance to the old dollar coin.
Though the new coin dollar will coexist with the dollar bill, the U.S. Mint will end production of the SBA dollar. The Mint was shipping over 5 million SBAs every month last year to satisfy the needs of consumers who were using dollar coins.
The Mint has set up a special toll-free number, (877) 357-2646, to answer questions about the new coin and upgrading coin-operated equipment. Information is also available from the U.S. Mint's website: www.usmint.gov/dollarcoin.
Just before Congress finished its business last year, North Carolina Senator Jesse Helms introduced S. 1939, a bill that proposes significant tax cuts for "dry cleaning equipment which uses reduced amounts of hazardous substances."
The bill seeks to amend the Internal Revenue Code of 1986, allowing a 20 percent credit of the "basis of each qualified dry cleaning property placed in service during the taxable year."
Titled the "Small Business Pollution Prevention and Opportunity Act," the bill limits the tax credit for the taxable year by applying to "one qualified dry cleaning property in service during such year at each business premise of the taxpayer."
The bill breaks down further to define qualified dry cleaning properties to mean "equipment designed primarily to dry clean clothing and other fabric if:
A) Such equipment does not use any hazardous solvent as the primary process solvent;
B) The original use of such property commences with the taxpayer; and
C) With respect to which depreciation (or amortization in lieu of depreciation) is allowable."
Hazardous solvents are defined in the bill as any solvent that "any portion of which consists of a chlorinated solvent, a petroleum-based solvent, or any other hazardous or regulated substance."
The Helms bill is a companion to one introduced in the House last year. Representative Dave Camp ( R-MI) introduced HR 1303 in March, subtitled the "Dry Cleaning Environmental Tax Credit Act of 1999," which will pursues the same goal as S 1939.
Currently, the House bill has 19 co-sponsors. Both bills will carry over when Congress goes back in session this month.
Micell Technologies, a manufacturer of liquid carbon dioxide cleaning systems based in Helms' home state of North Carolina, heralded the senator's sponsorship of the legislation. Micell said the tax credit would benefit cleaners who switch to wetcleaning or liquid carbon dioxide based cleaning.
"I am thrilled that Senator Helms has reached out to offer cleaners the assistance they need as small businesses to help them switch to these new technologies that really are the future of drycleaning," said Joseph DeSimone, chairman and cofounder of Micell.
DeSimone and two of his students at the University of North Carolina, Timothy Romack, Ph. D., and Jim McClain, Ph. D., founded Micell in 1995. The company's Micare system uses specialized detergents that dissolve in liquid carbon dioxides.
For more information on S. 1939, contact Kevin Koonce of Senator Jesse Helm's office at (202) 224-1368.
Information on either bill can be obtained by going to the website: http://thomas.loc.gov and typing in either "S. 1939" or "H.R. 1303" in the search engine.
Date created: Dec 29 1999 Last modified: Dec 29 1999 Copyright © 1999, National Clothesline Maintained by: Hal Horning Hal Horning