Those of you who have spent time on a dairy farm recognize part of the daily ritual that involves the herd returning to the barn at the end of the day, their grazing completed. The procession moves slowly.
So it is that the cows, in suede form, have come "back home" in garment fashion. And they've been gone for a very long time.
Those of us who remember the first cow suede stampede also remember the characteristics associated with processing these garments. This takes us back to the mid-1960s.
Until then, the overwhelming majority of leather and suede apparel was derived from the skins of sheep or goat, with an occasional garment produced from young sheep (lamb) or young goat (kid).
It took the development of a machine known as a "band-knife splitter," used in tanneries, to separate the epidermis from the corium layer of thick cow hides, essentially producing two hides from one animal. Without this splitting, a cow hide is far too thick to make comfortable weight suede or leather apparel.
With the advent of this processing, cow suedes began to appear throughout the U.S., many carrying the labels of Pioneer Outerwear or JO-O-KAY. The stampede was at full speed. But stampedes are not infinite in duration.
Some background
It may help to provide some background on cowhide to clarify its impact on the market.
Sheep or goat skins, tanned, produce an average yield of about nine square feet per skin -- or per animal rendered, if you prefer.
An average waist-hip length garment requires nearly 40 square feet of leather or suede. Therefore four to five of these skins would be needed to make this average garment.
Cow hides can average over 30 square feet each! Once split, their yield is essentially doubled, often producing over 50 square feet of usable leather or suede per hide.
Since there are many more cows (and other bovines) than sheep or goats, and with each yielding five times the square footage in leather or suede, it becomes much easier to understand the immediate impact the band-knife splitter had on the leather and suede apparel industry.
Cow suede garment fashions stayed popular until the early 1980s. Then they began to fade away, replaced by the less expensive pig suede garments that came into vogue in the late 1970s. But cow suede didn't disappear from use. Instead, small pieces were now being used to enhance the very popular Nike, Adidas and other shoe fashions that were becoming a big thing worldwide.
Splitting a hide or skin yields two entirely different types of leather or suede. There will always be a smooth (epidermis) side, with the hair, fleece, bristles or wool removed, depending on the animal type; while the obverse side will be rough or abraded. Splits (or corium) layer will be rough, or abraded, on both sides.
Corium splits were used in shoes. The epidermis was used to produce the very popular Bomber jackets made famous by the motion picture Raiders of the Lost Ark.
The cows didn't really go away -- they simply changed their appearance. They were now "distressed leather" or Nu Bucks. And this type of leather is no longer fashionable.
Several years ago, the shoe industry cut back on the use of cow suede in its designs. A glut of available hides resulted, as did lowered prices. Garment fashion designers now re-focused on this available source and began using cow suede for garments.
It was deja vu all over again. Today we see Gap, Structure, Old Navy, Polo, etc., labels on cow suede jackets and garments.
Cow suede from split skins often contains what appears to be a pattern of irregular lines. The photos shows these lines. These lines are blood veins. They were exposed in the splitting process. Veins are potentially weak areas of the hide, and agitation (wearing, cleaning, drying, pressing, etc.) may tug the weak vein area sufficiently to cause a tear.
These actions tend to intensify the appearance of the veins even if tearing does not occur. Garment manufacturers use the hides with veins, often placing the veiny hides in areas of the garment where the veins are hidden from casual observation. Underarm panels are the most commonly encountered areas where veiny hides are found.
It may be difficult or downright objectionable to tell a garment owner that his precious garment contains blood-veins, or insect bite scars, etc. Perhaps using terminology like "natural conditions" will help to ease the effect. But you don't want to be the one held liable for their creation. Inspect carefully. Show the customer these "natural conditions." Let them know you know!
Stay out of the way of the stampede!
Robert Stewart is president of Kirk's Suede-Life Inc. based in Chicago, IL. He can be reached at (312) 733-6611. The company's web site is www.suedelife.com.How often have we heard: It can't be done. No one cares. No one will listen. Forget it. Let someone else do it.
These remarks may be true if we are easily influenced by nay-sayers but not so when intuitively we believe we are right.
What makes us feel helpless is when we feel overpowered by big government and giant conglomerates.
The bigger they, get the smaller we feel. This is probably why we are called Mom & Pop drycleaners. When you think about it, that is really a compliment! It has parental connotations of being caring and trustworthy. If you can't believe Mom & Pop, who can we believe?
We don't know who came up with the name, but we do have an obligation in living up to it. Mom & Pop drycleaners are community connected and customer connected. A truly parental relationship -- customers are greeted by name and with friendliness.
Mom & Pop drycleaners don't need to be reminded that drycleaning is a labor-intensive business.
This could be one reason why drycleaners are so individualistic. Tired people don't like to be bothered. They are more concerned about their own immediate welfare and less concerned with problems of others.
Nevertheless, there are problems that may concern all drycleaners. The question is: Should we give in to discounting or stick with quality?
That's one of the problems.
The majority of drycleaners prefer to stay with quality. The reasons are valid. They believe that discounting should not be considered when, by today's standard, we are in a prosperous economy and not in a state of crisis.
The rich are getting richer and the poor are making a good living. But drycleaners are suffering, and even more so are the Mom & Pop drycleaners. They dug themselves a hole and they did it trying to compete with the one-low-price drycleaners.
To make matters worse, they sacrificed quality and service. That made the hole deeper, and now they have a hard time getting out. This is exactly what the giant discounters wanted.
We left ourselves open
This also made it easy for intruders, not related to drycleaning, to enter with their questionable "cleaning in a bag" process, which they are now promoting. They will spend a lot of money on advertising, trying to get people to buy it. They realize it's hard to be convincing in selling a product when it is almost not a product.
This, by far, is not the kind of service that drycleaners provide. The truth is that a pretentious service advertised by fabricated sincerity will need a lot of convincing.
Now it is up to drycleaners to reveal this fallacy. However, we cannot accuse others of putting out questionable service when evidence has been shown that we are doing the same. It takes more than rhetoric to do quality work.
Today we are faced with the troubling decision of direction. Should we stay with quality or lean towards discounting?
There are drycleaners who have decided to go with discounting. Unfortunately, the Mom & Pop drycleaners are doing it because consumers are being bombarded with discounting by the media. The Internet and retailers are making consumers price conscious. The television media is voicing bargains such as name your price, buy more, pay less, and do it now.
The fatal attraction
Drycleaners who are heading in this direction should bear in mind that drycleaning is a service business and not part of the brand-name retail industry.
Alan Robson found discounting to be unwise. In his column for the National Clothesline (November 1998) he wrote the following: "Discount cleaning is a fatal attraction."
He didn't use a crystal ball in making that analysis. He gathered information and asked questions from drycleaners before he made his judgment based on facts. His opinion proved to be right.
What Robson found about discounting is true. There is evidence that cleaners have gone into bankruptcy. Evictions are happening; landlords are refusing to rent to drycleaners. Many are delinquent in payment for supplies. Some have been known to throw away the key and disappear.
Downsizing diehards
The diehards who are determined to hang with discounting and disavow quality in order to survive will down-size their cleaning process which will reduce the value of drycleaning to be in balance with cheap prices.
Evidence of this is now showing. Cleaners should recognize the fact that dirty solvent doesn't clean clothes; it distributes dirt onto other garments. Clogged filters don't remove dirt from solvent. By avoiding distillation, other impurities remain in the solvent This method of cleaning reaches a point where consumers feel that they have been taken by cheap prices,
It's no wonder that consumers can be convinced to try something else other than "regular drycleaning."
Now is the time to spread the word and be heard. Together we can make a strong voice -- the Quality Voice. Say it loud. Say it often.
Bill Bogus is president of Textile Restoration Services Inc. in Laurel, MD. He can be reached at (301) 776-4961.TO THE EDITOR:
In the April 2000 issue of National Clothesline, Mr. Fisher presented his view and the views of the Board of Directors of the International Fabricare Institute on current and new cleaning technologies, threats confronting the industry, and recognition and response to industry problems.
Current and new cleaning technologies
First, I would like to correct some inaccurate statements about Micell. It is indeed accurate that our CO2 technology is being made available exclusively for retail drycleaning through affiliation with our national brand of professional garment care experts called Hangers.
All clothes cleaned in a Hangers store are cleaned in either CO2 or in water (you can't get more natural than that!). But the only equipment purchase necessary for an existing operator is the MiCO2 machine ($150,000) and a chiller ($15,000). The drycleaner is not required by us to use any special finishing or laundry equipment.
Moreover, in recent discussions with a large, very well known provider of equipment and package stores, we were negotiating tremendous discount prices for our franchisees.
Mr. Fisher also states that "Micell has shown a decided unwillingness to be "part" of our industry... [based on] Micell's strategy of attracting outside investors." According to Mr. Bill Seitz, executive director of the Neighborhood Cleaners Association-International, an estimated 50 to 60 percent of the 36,000-37,000 cleaners in the US are relative newcomers, having joined our industry in the last 25 years. And more than 50 percent of the Hangers team are drycleaners who are converting from traditional solvents. Their motivations include:
As such, of the "Five Critical Criteria" that Mr. Fisher cites there is only one process that meets all five criteria, our liquid CO2 process.
In addition, we have shown our interest in being part of the industry through our membership in IFI and by paying for our franchisees to become members as well.
Threats confronting the industry
Mr. Fisher accurately identifies issues that threaten traditional dry cleaners: consumer preferences and trends, economic issues, government directives, and current policies and practices. However, all of these same issues are driving existing cleaners to the Hangers team.
Consumer preferences are indeed driving more casual garments and increased demands on the retail experience because other industries are raising the performance bar.
Plain and simple, Micell's liquid CO2 process is better for garments than traditional solvents. Cotton Inc., the industry trade association for cotton use, has released results showing better color retention and longer garment life by cleaning cotton garments in CO2. Cotton garments make up a large portion of casual clothes.
Another way the market opportunity grows for Hangers team cleaners is through the dramatically increased top line revenue enhancements that are available only to them.
These include the ability to gently clean and instantly dry a wide range of new items such as: down garments and comforters; pillows; quilted bedspreads; stuffed toys; and heavily beaded garments.
In addition, an outstanding oil and water repellent coating which will be applied directly from our machines will be available to our franchisees later this year.
The Hangers team members who are converts to our technology are also experiencing many less labor demands. Hangers Cleaners are attracting the best and brightest employees from their drycleaning competitors in their local markets.
The reasons include the progressive work environment at Hangers, the up-scale call offices, the ability to participate in community outreach activities such as field trips from local schools and being part of a significant revolution in the dry cleaning industry.
What Hangers enables is a differentiated business within the dry cleaning industry that is competitive with other industries like fast food, restaurants, and coffee shops but with better hours.
Mr. Fisher also cites increasing regulatory burdens on cleaners from federal, state, and local governments.
He is right, and this will not go away; rather it will get even more intense now that a viable alternative has emerged.
One only has to look at other industries that underwent a technology transformation such as refrigerants, coatings, and chemical manufacturing to see how rapidly a transition can occur once a viable alternative is identified. CO2 is the only technology that eliminates the potential for site contamination, as the real estate development and banking communities are starting to realize.
This advantage is enhancing the availability of capital for drycleaners that use our pollution prevention technology.
The final threat that Mr. Fisher cites in his article is the fact, in his words, that "quality is at an all-time low in a majority of plants."
Mr. Fisher points to low distillation frequencies, inadequate use of sizing and detergent levels, poor basic stain removal, and overall "poor quality." All of these items disappear for our Hangers team because of the automated nature of our equipment which controls distillation rates, detergent levels, etc., and use of ultra fine filtration.
Finishing quality and exemplary customer service is ensured through training, on-line and on-site support, and routine "mystery" shoppers who document their retail experience.
Recognition and response to industry problems
Mr. Fisher ends his article by citing the ancient Chinese proverb "May you live in interesting times" and advocates that "it's high time to think about new ways of running your business."
We at Micell and Hangers agree. We offer the total solution that allows dry cleaners to be in business for themselves, but not by themselves.
Exclusive territories with a differentiated product will enable the cleaners on the Hangers team to be the most profitable and successful the industry has ever witnessed.
Please contact us through our websites, www.micell.com and www.hangersdrycleaners.com, or by phone, 1-877-MICELL-1 if you would like to learn more.
Dr. Joseph M. DeSimone
Co-founder and chairman,
Micell Technologies, Inc.
Editor's Note: Developments continue on new cleaning solvents but perc remains the undisputed first-choice clothes-cleaning solvent for the majority of cleaners in the United States and, in many respects, it provides a yardstick by which to measure the other solvents that are being presented to the industry. The following article, originally presented at TexCare '99 in New Jersey and printed in a recent issue of Dow's Spot News, explains why perc has achieved its current status in the industry and suggests how it can maintain that position in the future.
As members of the fabric care industry, drycleaners know that the objective of their business is to clean and finish garments and household textiles to a condition as close to "like new" as possible.
In carrying out this mission, any cleaning method or agent is acceptable to the drycleaner as long as it fulfills three conditions:
Perchloroethylene fulfills all these conditions superlatively. As a result it has been the cleaning agent of choice throughout the world of drycleaning ever since it was introduced for fabric cleaning in the late 1930s.
Let's look at the principal features and benefits of perc:
High solvency. As an exceptionally effective solvent, perc dissolves virtually all organic stains, including oils, greases, fats, and waxes. Because of this, it minimizes the need for pre-spotting and re-working.
Low viscosity. Perc penetrates fibers quickly, dissolves soils rapidly, and promotes a short cleaning cycle.
Hydrophobic properties. Perc does not act like water on fabric fibers; it doesn't cause them to swell or shrink. Wool garments, in particular, retain their shape through perc washing.
High density. Perc is a heavy liquid, more than one and one-half times the weight of the same volume of water. This weight provides added mechanical action during the wash cycle.
Rapid evaporation. Perc evaporates quickly in moderate heat providing rapid drying times during the cleaning cycle.
Low heat requirement for vaporization. Energy requirements to distill and condense perc are low. This means that perc can be cost-effectively recycled and recovered.
Low chemical reactivity. Perc is not corrosive to equipment when the proper use procedures are followed.
Virtually no flammability. Perc has no flash point as measured by standard test methods, and no flammable limits in air. This means easy compliance with National Fire Prevention Association guidelines and local fire codes.
Commitment
One major benefit which is specific to the fabric care industry is the level of support which drycleaners receive from producers and distributors of perc and from the manufacturers of perc drycleaning equipment. These companies have a proven track record for their commitment to the industry.
Over the years, the equipment manufacturers have continuously improved their cleaning technology, leading the nation's drycleaners through the incremental stages from first-generation transfer equipment up to the most advanced fifth-generation machines.
Perc producers and distributors have been very active in providing safe handling information and training for drycleaning employees, as well as active support in helping drycleaners meet safety, health and environmental regulations. And the closed-loop systems, such as Dow's Closed-Loop Delivery System for DOWPER solvent were developed by the perc producers.
In addition, trade associations such as the Halogenated Solvents Industry Alliance (HSIA) and the European Chlorinated Solvents Association (ECSA) have funded toxicology studies of perc, in order to improve the understanding of the potential effects of the solvent on human health.
This sort of support is a real plus for drycleaners who offer perc drycleaning to their customers.
Efficiency
The improvement of drycleaning equipment over the years has led to a major decrease in the volume of perc used by the industry. Today's fifth-generation equipment does the same work as first-generation equipment while using only 12 percent of the original amount of perc.
Let's get specific. The old transfer equipment, generally referred to as first-generation technology, typically used 82 pounds of perc for every 1,000 pounds of garments cleaned. Of this, 68 pounds of perc was lost through fugitive emissions, while about 14 pounds was waste from still residue and filters.
Second generation equipment, the first vented dry-to-dry machines, used less than half this amount of perc for the same 1,000 pounds of clothes cleaned: Only 20 pounds of perc was lost as fugitive emissions, while 14 pounds of perc was still waste, for a total of 34 pounds of perc.
Improvements to third-generation equipment, closed-loop refrigerated dry-to-dry machines, were still focused on reducing emissions, and succeeded in reducing perc consumption to about 18 pounds per 1,000 pounds clothes cleaned, only 5 of which is from fugitive emissions.
Today's fourth-generation machines have all the improvements of third-generation equipment, plus secondary vapor control, while fifth-generation machines add an air analyzer, which prevents the door from opening before a vapor level of 280 ppm is reached, and an enclosed waste removal system.
However, the real improvement in efficiency of these machines is not from further reduction in emissions, but comes from the use of spin disk filters instead of cartridge filters. By reducing the amount of waste generated, about one half the waste of any of the prior technologies, today's fabric care specialist can clean 1,000 pounds of clothes with a mere 10 pounds of perc, less than a gallon!
In fact, if you replace the cartridge filters of a third-generation machine with spin disk filters, you can achieve an overall efficiency almost as good as fourth- and fifth-generation equipment.
The conclusion is that today's perc equipment is the most efficient of all drycleaning alternatives, while still providing the benefits of perc drycleaning.
The progress in drycleaning equipment has resulted in a steep reduction in the amount of perc used by the U.S. drycleaning industry. A study by the Textile Care Allied Trades Association (TCATA) reveals that perc demand for drycleaning has gone from 235 million pounds in 1988 to 72 million pounds in 1998, a full 70 percent drop in 10 years.
This drop in consumption is not the result of a decline in cleaning volume or a move away from perc in the fabric care industry. It is simply the result of using more efficient equipment and better solvent management practices on the part of drycleaners.
Pollution prevention
any of the complaints about perc drycleaning are the result of former drycleaning practices which allegedly led to soil or groundwater contamination. This has led to the problems of retroactive liability, difficulty in obtaining leases, and costly cleanup projects.
Hopefully these problems can be solved through new legislation. At the same time, it is necessary for drycleaners to do their best to prevent any future contamination and to keep their businesses environmentally clean for the sake of their employees, customers and neighbors.
As a drycleaner, you should take a number of steps to prevent pollution. For example:
Regulation
Drycleaners are an important part of our urban culture, so it is little wonder that they have come under close surveillance from regulatory bodies. There are between 30,000 and 35,000 drycleaning establishments in the U.S., and another 3,000 in Canada, and they employ a large number of workers. Drycleaning facilities can be found in practically every neighborhood, and public contact with drycleaning is high.
As a result, the drycleaning industry has received much attention from regulators. Typically, regulatory bodies don't pay much attention to new industrial processes until they are widely used, with the result that some of the new drycleaning technologies are subject to only minimal regulations -- so far.
Consequently, if you're casting about for a new drycleaning system, don't select one on the basis of minimal regulations -- you don't know what the regulatory future will bring. The best basis of choice is to look at the needs of your customers, the services you want to provide to keep them coming back, and the process which will give you the best return for your investment. Then make sure you operate in an environmentally sound manner.
In summary, we can say that perchloroethylene is an excellent drycleaning agent. It has the cleaning performance needed to meet garment care requirements, it has more than 60 years of proven performance, and it has suppliers and distributors who are committed to the drycleaning industry.
Further, the latest perc equipment provides the most efficient and economical drycleaning alternative. With new equipment and good pollution prevention practices, perc drycleaning can be operated in a safe and environmentally responsible manner.
Janet Hickman is the drycleaning industry development manager for Dow Chemical Co. More information on perc drycleaning is available from Dow's web site: www.dowper.com.BY BILL BOHANNON
Who is drycleaning's top producer?
Who are the industry's best operators?
Who are the "Top Guns" of the drycleaning industry?
How successful are they?
Last month I received a survey back from a drycleaner with a 40 percent profit margin. In addition to a 40 percent net profit, the owner had enough money in overhead to allow for an owner/operator salary of at least another 10 percent. This would make the total owner's benefit exceed 50 percent of gross sales.
Your first thought is that this is probably a hoax. But after a review of the numbers, it is entirely possible to make this kind of profit in the right situation -- and you don't need to have incredible prices either. The prices charged by this top producer were just under $8 per suit.
While not everyone in the industry can make a 40 percent profit and a 50 percent owner's benefit, we can all learn from studying and understanding how it is done. This model can become your blueprint for success.
How is your operation different from this ideal model? What changes can you make in your operations and marketing strategies that will get you headed in the right direction?
By measuring your operation against the industry's best, you can seek better ways to duplicate their success and increase your bottom line.
Many operators are satisfied with operating profits below 20 percent of gross sales. Should you be? Given the rise in the stock market over the last few years, if you had sold the business four years ago and bought stocks you would likely have made more money sitting at home doing nothing.
In the past, most of us have found greater success by working harder. That likely won't be enough in the future. Over the last few years, more and more of us are working harder just to keep from falling further behind. The changing dynamics will make it essential that you find ways to work smarter if you are going to survive and prosper.
At the The Drycleaning Edge, we will focus on working smarter. In coming months, group members will explore new ways that will assist you in becoming more efficient, more effective and more profitable by focusing on a number of areas.
If you are interested in hearing more about this new opportunity please contact me at (301) 812-0117 or e-mail me at bohannon@tidalwave.net .
Bill Bohannon is the owner of Hollin Hall Cleaners in Alexandria, VA.People who are considering going into the drycleaning business often contact this publication and, we are certain, other trade publications and industry associations as well, asking our views of the industry and advice about whether they should make an investment in it.
While we do our best to respond, we decided in one instance to turn the questions over to our readers -- the people who are actively engaged in the drycleaning business. A letter from an Illinois man, David, posed four simple but pertinent questions that he wanted to hear answers to before he plunged in.
"I am contemplating entering this business, but have some reservations," David wrote. He then asked four questions:
1. Do you feel that there is a bright future in the drycleaning business?
2. Have Americans changed drastically in the way they dress for work and pleasure? How has this affected the drycleaning business?
3. Would you say there has been a downturn in this industry in America?
4. Have we become a wash and wear society?
Our short answers would be "Yes" to all of the above. National Clothesline readers responded in more detail.
To the first question, one reader advised David that "there are a lot more ways to make money with less work and cash outlay," But he also added " I have become very wealthy in this industry, but it was through hard work and luck."
Another reader said the future is bright "if, as an industry, we get back to the basics: providing excellent customer service and finished work."
"Those entering the industry must do their homework, i.e., a good, sound business plan." David was told.
Make sure there is a market; watch out for the saturated market where there is a cleaner on every corner, which will "fuel deep discounting that leads to extremely hard work with little reward."
Discounting contains the seeds of its own doom, one warned. At low prices, they can't provide quality care and finishing, so the prices continue to go down to try to keep volume up. Eventually, the work will be "literally given away" and the discounter will fall prey to his own misconstrued theories of supply and demand and volume vs. market share.
In answer to the second question, the casual trend has cut into the business, David was told. A Memphis, TN, cleaner said that Casual Fridays have taken away 20 percent of the average shirt laundry. But all is not lost, said another cleaner. People still require a professional appearance. "The clothing may be different in how it is cleaned and finished."
David's correspondents agree that there has been a down-turn in the industry with some cleaners experiencing drop in volume that have led to store closings -- or in some cases, opening new stores to try to drum up more business to keep existing plants working.
The decline in volume is not due entirely to increased competition or more relaxed dress styles, one reader said. He attributed part of the problem to "the tendency of the cleaner not to modernize its equipment and processes."
In answering the last questions, no one thought we had become a total "wash and wear society." While casual attire is more in favor today, people still want to look good and for most professionals that means clean and pressed clothing.
"There is a need, and I feel, always will be, for a good, professional cleaners that today's customers can trust in getting quality service at a fair and reasonable price," wrote one of David's volunteer advisors.
And another had advice not only for David but the larger industry:
"Although I believe that the current drycleaning industry is definitely in decline, I also believe that its potential to reverse the decline is exceedingly great -- if only it can reorient itself toward 'doing household laundry'," wrote a Kansas City cleaner.
With that advice in hand, will David take the plunge? If you were in his position today, would you?
Date created: Apr 30 2000 Copyright © 1999, National Clothesline Maintained by: Hal Horning Hal Horning