There are many phrases that sum up a manager's job. Among them are these:
Don't expect what you don't inspect.
Catch somebody in the act of doing something right.
Management is getting work done through other people.
I like all of those. They are all true. I am, however, especially fond of describing management as "looking for trouble." It really isn't the ultimate in pessimism. I like to view it as a perfect example of pro-active management.
There are two types of management: pro-active management and re-active management. As a manager in any type of business, you must be proficient at both. Unfortunately, many managers are good at reacting, in fact, so good at it that they have little time left to be pro-active.
My tours throughout North America installing my unique procedures are really about implementing pro-active management techniques. The fact that these new procedures are often radical changes suggests to me that too often plant owners have settled upon the belief that their business can only be one that works with re-active management. Not true.
Perhaps a clear explanation of the difference is in order. Re-active management means that you, as the manager, re-act to situations as they present themselves.
Example: It is 5:55 p.m. and a customer comes to the counter to pick-up his order of shirts. You can't find it! A look in the assembly department and you find the order, incomplete. You are forced to re-act. You then do what needs to be done to make the order ready to go.
You may re-wash the missing shirt. You may have to start up the boiler again. Or, you may tell the customer to come back tomorrow.
No matter which course you follow, you have failed to meet your customer's expectations.
You may have even built up a tolerance to this kind of situation. You may have even forgotten that this scenario means you have failed to meet your customer's expectations. If that is the case, it is probably because it happens too often. You have accepted this type of re-active management as a way of life in the drycleaning business It doesn't have to be that way.
Another example of re-active management is when you re-act to a broken piece of equipment. Pro-active management dictates preventative maintenance. Pro-active management is doing things that prevent an undesirable situation from happening in the first place rather than managing to react to it when it does happen -- dealing with the situation however effectively.
Preventative maintenance is an easy concept to understand when we are talking about equipment: Do "this" and "that" and you attempt to prevent the undesirable equipment failure.
Will you succeed in preventing equipment failure all the time? Of course not. In fact, you may never know if taking the time to replenish the oil in those hydraulic checks, or tightening this bolt and that screw will ever actually save you time and money and aggravation.
Probably nothing will ever occur that will prove to you that topping off that automatic oiler, for instance, saved the day. But you should know, in your heart, that it can only do you good.
Fighting fires Being a re-active manager is being a fire-fighter. There is a bad situation, and you come to the rescue. You cannot do without the fire-fighter, but it would surely be better to have prevented the fire in the first place, don't you think?
The things that are a crisis in our businesses, other than equipment issues, are all too often dismissed as part of the business. This is wrong.
Perhaps you do perform regular preventative maintenance. Even with that, surely you regularly face equipment issues. Hopefully, you do not wonder to yourself why you even bother with preventative maintenance. Hopefully, you thank yourself for the foresight of doing such and know that you would face many more equipment issues if you did no regular maintenance.
The irony, though, is that there are "preventative maintenance" things that you can do to combat the other issues that can ruin your day that you can measure, but they rarely get done. Your current preventative maintenance deals with "preventing" equipment failures.
The payoff is difficult to measure. How about working at things that may "prevent" other, even more undesirable situations from recurring? How about establishing procedures to prevent that shirt order from not being completed when it was supposed to be? How about procedures that work toward preventing sub-standard press quality?
This will be "preventative maintenance" that will have results that you can measure.
It is often true at many plants that, at the end of the day, various "lost" pieces need to be accounted for -- the four missing shirts for three incomplete orders, for example.
Don't you think that working at keeping that from happening again is a better way to spend your time than looking for that missing shirt, washing it and then starting up the boiler to press that one missing shirt while your customer angrily waits?
A hero or a clown?
It is really easy to feel as though you are this customer's hero because you saved the day. In actuality, the customer just may think that you're a clown because the order wasn't done in the first place. That is a sad reality.
So, go look for trouble. Look at as many shirts as you can and leave the blinders off. Look at your shirts as a customer would. Make excuses for nothing. Are there any missing buttons? Are the collars as clean as they were when the shirt was new?
Stop!
Notice that I said "Are the collars as clean as they were when the shirt was new?" I could have said, "Are the collars as clean as you can get them?" That would be building in a "way out." It would be a pre-fabricated excuse, a response, waiting in the wings. If you do not learn how to ask yourself questions about your service, your quality and your business, you will not learn about being an effective, pro-active manager. This type of manager always looks at things as a skeptical customer might.
So, you find a shirt and it has a slightly dirty collar. Quite possibly, you have seen this before and accepted it as "normal." Get some answers Just for fun, investigate this. Talk to your chemical rep about it. Get some answers. Be as informed as you can be.
One of three things will happen: You will believe him/her when he/she tells you that this shirt is as clean as it can get or you will test his/her statement and see if other chemicals can get it clean or your chemical supplier will make it right.
You have just been pro-active, no matter which of these situations actually happens. Now, when a customer comes to you and complains about ring-around-the-collar, you have a very professional response: "Thanks for bringing this to my attention Mr. Jones. I noticed this in my plant two weeks ago and I, too, was annoyed by it. I contacted the company that manufactures my soap. They sent a representative here and this is what I learned..." That is an immeasurably more intelligent response than, "Gee, I don't know why your shirt is like this. I'll try again" or, "That shirt won't get cleaner than that." The same goes for any kind of pressing defect. If a customer returns a shirt with a crease across the pocket, you can say "Darn pressers! They did this again. I'll do it over." Or you can be "on-the-ball" and say: "I spotted this in the plant the other day. I have since re-trained the presser and expect not to see this again." Take the blinders off It is very difficult to walk through your plant and leave the blinders on your desk. It is very tough to see things as a customer sees them. It is very tough to be your own toughest critic. But if you do those things, you will not only have a leg up on your competitors, you'll be a step ahead of your customers -- you'll already have answers to their questions and solutions to their problems because you will be in charge of your business.
Go out there now and look for trouble. It will pay big dividends.
Donald Desrosiers is a 22-year veteran of the shirt laundering business and a work-flow systems engineer who provides services to shirt launderers through Tailwind Shirt Systems, 867 Spencer St., Fall River, MA. He can be reached by phone at (508) 965-3163 or by e-mail at tailwind1@mediaone.net and he has a web sites located at: www.tailwindshirts.com and www.dondesrosiers.comPhone technology has changed the way we communicate. You pick up the phone and make a call. A voice recording responds. "Please hold. Our representatives are busy. Your call is important to us. Please wait. Our next available representative will take your call. Please wait. Please wait. Your call is important... Your call is..." Another call goes something like this:
"At the sound of the beep; please leave a short message and we will...." Is this a ploy for hiding or what?
Communication was never like this before. There was a time when you made a call to the president of a big corporation. He would listen to your problem or whatever, and he would thank you for calling. There was a time when you picked up the phone, dialed a number, and your call went through. The voice wasn't from a recording but a live person. It could be something like this:
"Charley's Boiler Repair Shop. May I help you?" "I would like to speak to Charley." "I'm Charley." "Good. My name is Joe and I've got a boiler problem." "What's the problem, Joe?" "My steam boiler won't fire up." "Check your sight glass, Joe, and see if your water level is high enough to start the boiler. If it isn't, the boiler won't fire. Check it out. I'll wait." "You are right, Charley. I've got the boiler firing." "Any more problems, Joe." "No, everything is fine. Thanks, Charley." "No problem. Glad to help." "By the way, Joe, how's business?" "Not good, not bad. I'm losing confidence in what is happening today. My wife says we both need a vacation. She wants to go to Disney World." "That's not a bad idea. Where would you like to go?" "I would rather go to Atlantic City than shake hands with Mickey Mouse." "Have you decided?" "Yeah, me and my wife decided to go to Disney World." "How about you, Charley? Are you going to take a vacation?" "You bet. Me and my wife take a vacation every year. I want to go up to New Hampshire to rest and go fishing. My wife wants to vacation in Florida with mosquitoes and crocodiles." "Where are you going?" "We have decided to go vacationing in Florida." Wake up call For the undecided:
Product ads on wheels prowling the highways have become highly visible and are growing. More product manufacturers are doing it because the ads work. Motorists enjoy them. Mobile product ads are interesting and prevent boredom on the road.
The majority of drycleaners do not have pick-up and delivery service. They are dependent on suppliers who service the industry. Mobile ads with humor will be more noticeable.
Bill Bogus is president of Textile Restoration Services Inc. in Laurel, MD. He can be reached at (301) 776-4961.PART 3
This series concludes with the inspector's check list for finishing quality points. The first level of finishing quality is "PRODUCTION LEVEL" -- Discount and low prices for bargain hunters. This level is also referred to as "ECONOMY." In this type of operation we are concerned with the maximum number of pieces per operator hour, but the quality of the finishing must be, at least, acceptable to the customer despite the low price being paid.
TROUSERS1. No spots (where possible to remove).
2. No rips, tears, open seams, open hemlines or missing buttons (if free repairs are a plant policy).
3. No excess linting.
4. No double creases.
5. No crotch wrinkles.
6. No uneven crease heights in plain fronts.
7. No vacuum wrinkles.
8. No folded pockets.
9. No zippers that won't slide easily.
1. No spots (where possible to remove).
2. No rips, tears, open seams, open hemlines or missing buttons (if free repairs are a plant policy).
3. No excess linting.
4. No limp lapels.
5. No stretched sleeve cuffs.
6. No wrinkles in underarm areas.
7. No steam form finisher clamp impressions.
8. No badly wrinkled full liking or yoke lining.
3. No excess linting.
4. No creased collars.
5. No creased sleeves (un-less sleeves previously creased).
6. No mashed appearance in bust areas.
7. No leave-off marks.
1. No spots (where possible to remove)
2. No rips, tears, open seams, open hemlines or missing buttons (if free repairs are a plant policy).
3. No excess linting.
4. No heavy shine or seam impressions.
S. No obvious distortion or stretching.
6. No "rough dry" appearance on cottons and linens.
7. No leave-off marks 8. No zippers that won't slide easily
1. No spots (where possible to remove).
2. No rips, tears, open seams, open hemlines-or missing buttons (if free repairs are a plant policy).
3. No excess tinting.
4. No heavy shine or seam impressions.
5. No obvious distortion or stretching.
6. No "rough dry" appearance on cottons and linens.
7. No leave-off marks where top mid waistband meet the skirt area 8. "Kick pleat' not distorted.
9. No zippers that won't slide easily.
10. No missing waistband button.
1. No spots (where possible to remove).
2. No excess tinting.
3. No stretched or "felted" (seriously shrunk) appearance.
4. No harsh feel OVERCOATS/TOPCOATS 1. No spots (where possible to remove and customer notified).
2. No rips, tears, open seams, open hemlines or missing buttons (if free repairs are a policy).
3. No excess tinting.
4. No limp lapels.
5. No mashed appearance.
6. No open vents.
7. No heavy shine or seam impressions.
8. No stretched sleeve cuffs.
9. No badly wrinkled lining.
1. No spots (where possible to remove).
2. No rips, tears or open seams.
3. No hard creases in each side.
The second level of finishing quality is "DELUXE" -- medium to higher prices. This one is the most popular and satisfies most people in a middle income area. In most cases, the selling price for these garments is high compared to that of the high production plant. Consequently, more time can be spent producing each piece and incorporating quality points not included in high production operations.
TROUSERS1. No spots (where possible to remove).
2. No rips, tears, open seams, open hemlines or missing buttons.
3. No linting.
4. No double creases.
5. No crotch wrinkles.
6. No uneven crease heights front and back.
7. No rolled front creases where pleats meet front crease.
8. No double creases from top to bottom.
9. No vacuum wrinkles or dips.
10. No folded pockets 11. No leave-off marks.
12. No uneven cuffs on plains bottoms.
13. No flap pocket impressions and no dipped slotted pockets.
14. No wrinkles in fly on both sides (requires tensioning or hand iron or head pressure).
16. No zipper that won't slide easily.
1. No spots (unless they are impossible to remove and customer notified).
2. No rips, tears, open seams open hemlines or missing buttons.
3. No linting.
4. No limp lapels.
5. No improper lapel roll, (should roll from gorge seam crease to about one inch above first button or button hole).
6. No unpressed collar (should not roll up showing interlining and not be stretched or puckered -- should be creased through about two inches below gorge seam).
7. No buttons mashed into the fabric.
8. No wrinkled pocket flaps nor flap impressions 9. No open vents.
10. No heavy shine or seam impressions.
11. No stretched sleeve cuffs (should be squared).
12. No wrinkles in underarm area.
13. No impressions from steam form clamps.
14. No unfinished yoke lining.
15. No wrinkles in full lining.
1. No spots (unless they are impossible to remove and customer notified).
2. No rips, tears, open seams, open hemlines or missing buttons.
3. No linting.
4. No crossed collars.
5. No mashed appearance in bust areas.
6. No leave-off marks.
7. No limp lapels.
8. No improper roll (Note: Since there is no creased collar there is no crease through the gorge seams).
9. No buttons mashed into the fabric.
10. No creases or wrinkles in pocket flaps and no flap impressions 11. No wrinkles in underarm area.
12. No impressions from steam form clamps.
13. No stretched sleeve cuffs (not bell bottomed).
14. No wrinkles in lining.
15. No creases in sleeves (if sleeves are creased, every attempt to remove the crease should be made).
1. No spots (unless they are impossible to remove and customer notified)
2. No rips, tears, open stains, open hemlines or missing buttons.
3. No tinting.
4. No distortion or stretching.
5. No leave-off marks.
6. No sharp creases in roll pleats or sleeves (sleeves always rolled).
7. No mashed appearance on soft fabrics.
8. No "rough dry" appearance on cottons and linens.
9. No zippers sticking.
10. No bows pressed flat.
11. No loss of body or feel.
12. No inside facings or allowances wrinkled or unfinished.
13. No ripples in pleats.
14. No uneven hemlines and hems rolled where necessary.
15. No uneven pressure in both bodice and skirt areas (usually found where bodice is finished on puff irons without heads or vacuum and skirt is finished on utility press using head pressure).
16. No unopened seams.
1. No spots (unless they are impossible to remove and customer notified).
2. No rips, tears, open seams, open hemlines or missing buttons.
3. No linting.
4. No distortion or stretching.
5. No leave-off marks.
6. No sharp creases in roll pleats.
7. No mashed appearance on soft fabrics.
8. No wrinkles in waistband.
9. No loss of body or feel.
10. No ripples in pleats.
11. No uneven hemlines and hems rolled where necessary.
12. No unopened seams.
13. Kick pleat finished "closed."
14. No unfinished lining (for both attached and detached lining).
15. No zippers sticking.
1. No spots (unless they are impossible to remove and customer notified).
2. No lint.
3. No stretched or "felted" (seriously shrunk) appearance.
4. No harsh feel.
5. No stretched-out waistband and cuffs.
1. No spots (unless impossible to remove and customer notified).
2. No rips, tears and open seams.
3. No linting.
4. No creases in sides.
5. No wrinkled linings.
6. No bar tack removed.
DeLuxe level of finishing is by far the best "bang for the buck" for your customers. The level of quality is excellent and is achievable with only a little less production than the Economy (production) level.
Coupled with attractive packaging to enhance the beauty of the garment as well as preservation of the finish, you will command customer loyalty with excellent "word of mouth" advertising at no added cost.
The third level of finishing quality is "CLASSIC" -- very high prices and low volume. This level is used chiefly by persons with high incomes who have expensive wardrobes and many social engagements or executive positions with top-level corporate or community representation.
This level is offered by very few drycleaners due to its very low demand. Plant workers are highly skilled and customer service representatives are thorough in their inspection of each garment when received and while being marked in. All dresses, blouses and skirts are hung after being marked in and any problems foreseen are immediately communicated to the customer before being processed. All fragile ornamentation is removed, all fancy buttons are removed and all hooks are protected before processing.
TROUSERSIn addition to the points listed for DeLuxe level of quality:
1. Hand finish inside waistband lining.
2. Absolutely no wrinkles in outside waistband, flaps and fly front.
3. Legs are turned inside out and all seams ironed open 4. Slotted pocket edges are squared and wrinkle free 5. Pleated top has no pleat impressions All Suit/Sport Coats/ Overcoats/Jackets In addition to the points listed for DeLuxe level of quality: 1. Linings are hand ironed completely.
2. Chest/bust is formed and shaped (mushroom press is ideal for this lay).
3. No heavy impressions under button areas.
In addition to the points listed for deluxe level of quality:
1. All hemlines should be rolled and not pressed flat.
2. No seam impressions and all seams ironed open
3. All inside button strips and plackets are ironed (tip of hand iron used around buttons)
4. Synthetic hanger protectors must be used.
5. Bust forms must be used for bodice of dresses and all blouses.
6. Stand-up collars must be sized and pressed and protected by stiffener.
7. When finished, all buttons must be buttoned and zippers closed.
In addition to the points listed in DeLuxe level of quality:
1. Open the tie at the large end and hand iron inside flat.
2. Turn tie over and hand iron outside flat.
3. Carefully roll press the two edges using the pronged tie form.
4. Replace all bar tacks and seams.
5. Carefully inspect for all of the above.
GENERAL (CLASSIC)
Use of heavy plastic suit hangers (preferably 18 inch wide) are recommended for suits, coats, jackets. Grabber-type hangers for skirts and shorts are recommended. Heavy duty strut hangers are recommended for trousers and slacks, and grabber-type hangers are optional for ladies' slacks.
Only one garment to a plastic bag. Use tissue generously. Use hanger covers with your company name, etc., if plastic bags were not printed with that information on them. Make sure that the garment is positioned properly on its hanger. In conclusion, I want to emphasize the need for CONSISTENCY and STANDARDIZATION in finishing quality. You should give the same quality in the busier periods as in the slower periods.
Train and retrain finishers and inspectors in the quality standards that you have implemented. Training is an ongoing operation and never ends.
Use the new 18-inch, collar shape, #13 wire suit hangers for DeLuxe level of quality on coats, suits and jackets. Place all pants on the 18-inch strut hanger, collar shape, for placing the suit coat over the pants. Finally, make a good first impression of the package, and the rest will be easy.
NOTE: My video, "The Caplan Method of Stain Removal," which includes my comprehensive text (edited by Hal Horning) and the handy spotting board reference, is now available in English, Korean (video only) and Spanish (video only) from the Golomb Group, c/o Dennis McCrory, 7664 Plaza Court, Willowbrook, IL 60521; phone (630)887-7339.
Also available is my video on step-by-step shirt finishing, which includes my comprehensive text in loose-leaf form outlining each procedure for a single-operator cabinet shirt unit and a two-operator cabinet shirt unit. Both units are demonstrated using a cabinet sleever and a single, or triple, heated collar former. This procedure was developed by me for top quality with no touch-up (regular sizes) together with maximum production without overexertion by the operators.
Stan Caplan has more than 35 years experience in his own high volume and package plant with adjoining coin-operated laundry and drycleaning. A former chief instructor at International Fabricare Institute, Southwest Drycleaners Association school, Illinois State Fabricare Association school, Michigan Institute of Laundering and the Drycleaning school and Florida Institute of Launderers and Cleaners school; he offers consulting, training programs and engineering services in all areas of the fabric care industry including work flow concepts and lot systems, total quality management and work methods efficiency. Stan can be reached at 7341 Amberly Lane, Suite 310, Delray Beach, FL 33446; phone/fax (561) 496-2548, e-mail at stancap100@aol.com.
In the many years I have been in this business, some were great and some were challenging and there have even been times that I wished and literally begged that I could be somewhere else. Anywhere else!
It's not just that the grass is always greener in the other fellow's backyard, but I have also learned "that you never have it made!" We all fall down on occasion, so it becomes a question of how fast we get up -- or if we get up at all.
What is most important: "Did we learn and remember something from the experience?" Allow this mature man (note I said mature, and not old) to share some hard-won knowledge. Maybe you have heard it all before, but some things are always worth repeating. There are valid reasons why we should never forget the lessons from the past because, (it's true) "History constantly repeats itself." If we don't learn from our mistakes, we are destined to repeat them all over again.
First let's talk about quality. I mean consistent quality. It comes in many forms, from a bright-looking, lint-free garment with a natural, soft finish, to a superb touch of sharp packaging, plus a smiling counter person, in a sparkling clean store.
In the early 1960s I saw the introduction of coin-operated drycleaning -- eight pounds for $2-- then in the early 1970s polyester and wash n' wear came along.
Each era brought a disaster to marginal operators. They went under and deservedly so, but when the going got tough, the smart and concerned operations, those "tough enough," got going!
Where, when and how? Did they tighten the reins? How did they review the entire operation?
Corrective steps First, they started with eliminating waste: fuel oil, perc loss, non-productive labor, poor performing equipment. It was shape up, clean-up, fix-up -- or ship out!
When waste was brought to screeching halt, they took an objective look at (you guessed it "Quality!" And again I shout "Consistent quality!" It reminded me of going to a doctor, and getting a complete, thorough work up.
They started at the counter. It's not so strange that the main reason customers leave is for "Counter help indifference!" What does it take to smile, greet, say "Good Morning!" or remember a name? We know a counter can get messy, but why does clean-up take until the end of the day? What would it take for a counter person to wear a smock with a name tag? Or a clean, starched shirt and a tie ?
Quality requires consistency. It starts with instruction tags, so the spotter and drycleaner can do what they were hired and trained to do.
I am not surprised that the spotters' test for "color blindness" that I devised got so many requests.
Again, what would it take for a solvent quality control chart, hanging next to the cleaning unit, dated and signed, plus a white cotton test towel, showing brightness twice a day, with accurate detailed distillation and filtration records?
Finishing needs the same consistent control. How often is the padding changed? Not just when buttons start to break, I hope!
What I find is flagrant inattention given to the most important aspect in finishing, and that is the vacuum.
In the case of shirt finishing, does anyone bother to inspect a shirt a day after it was pressed? That's when the moisture reveals itself with poor and fast drying.
All too often an operator forgets that pressing is also drying and it's something that can't be speeded up for the sake of production.
The same rule applies when a garment is pressed. Inspect something that has been on the conveyor for a week or so, look at the rippled lapel or pocket flap. It's also time to check the padding, the presser, the vacuum -- or all three.
If the presser is on "piece work," then a red flag should go up, and vacuum allotment time could be the culprit. It might need a control and timed release vacuum.
Final inspection is probably one of the least attended and most important functions. It should be the nerve center of any plant with a weekly staff meeting that is logged and recorded so each meeting has constructive criticism, and a team effort is supported by a standard for excellence.
It sounds difficult, but that's what management is all about. Advertising, good will, customer relations, and follow-up? That should be the order of the day, and we had better be prepared.
Why this sudden importance now?
Some sneaky changes Some sneaky changes have taken place around us. They started out as insignificant, and suddenly it was a trend. It was not too long ago when competition was everywhere a strip shopping center could be located. If six stores went up, one of them had to be a drycleaner.
Next, the EPA had a field day announcing perc had to be carcinogenic and insisted on stringent controls. Was it all necessary?
Casual dress started as a summer lark with dress-down Friday, then soon spread to the entire week.
Now we are starting to witness multiple products for laundry. Do it at home is the cry -- and don't trust the cleaner!
There is also another sign on the horizon -- those large, Super-size Fabricare Centers. These companies supposedly have huge financial clout with some marketing genius behind it all. They certainly must know something we don't know about our little $7 billion a year industry. Perhaps it will be a trend of "easy care fabrics." I heard of a fabric for sport enthusiasts, termed "escapulation," which retains and releases a deodorant. Is this an indication for tomorrow? Disposal fabrics!
I confess I may be becoming too cynical and I have come to question my own gut feeling. I know there are storm clouds, and I have seen too many trends succeed which I felt didn't have a snowball's chance. But it still comes down to doing the best job we know how and to strive to become managerial.
We have at our disposal some dedicated organizations in the form of the NCA and IFI with a host of fabric care consultants at our finger tips. It's time to support those organizations as never before. Have you attended a meeting lately?
Let's not forget the National Clothesline, which has been there for the last few decades to not only act as watchdogs and blow the whistle as injustices have transpired, but also to alert all to the problems we face.
It becomes hard to imagine who would read the pulse of our industry. Who would be able to accurately forecast, or tell us what direction we should be looking? How can we go forward and whose judgment and advice we can heed and trust?
I once took a tally of the years of experiences of just half of the contributing writers and consultants that the Clothesline had assembled on a monthly basis and had stopped counting when it surpassed 250 years of industry "Know how!
I salute Sol Memberg, it's late founder, for setting this phenomenal legacy that we can constantly draw upon. Ray Colucci is a consultant to the fabric care industry. He can be reached 410 Warren Ave., Mamaroneck, NY 10543 or e-mail him at RCColucci@aol.com.Lace is hitting the streets in a number of different fashions and it is being shown by leading designers in provocative evening wear, sported with metallic, jazzed up with prints or worn completely sheer.
Lace is an open fabric made with threads of linen, cotton, silk, silver or gold. Most lace is now made by machine and is known to have many irregularities and may unravel more than hand-made lace.
Most lace consists of two elements -- the pattern and the ground that holds pattern. So defined, lace is distinguished from open stitched fabrics, from knitted open work such as a net and from knitted fabrics made from continuous strands. These fabrics may differ from true lace but are otherwise grouped with true lace in a more general use of the term.
Lace is used for a wide variety of garments, including evening wear, wedding gowns, jackets, slacks, and trimming. Lace is also used for tablecloths and curtains.
Lace may pose many problems depending upon construction, finish, color and application to the fabric.
1. Color problems. Some dyes may be soluble in drycleaning solvent, causing a total loss of color.
2. Sizing breakdown. The sizing used on lace can break down and oxidize causing white lace to change to yellow or brown. This can occur from drycleaning and finishing. Sizing breakdown and oxidation can occur over a period of time if the customer stored the lace trimmed garment.
3. Weakened yarns. Depending upon the fragility of the yarns, lace is subject to weakening from friction in normal wear, perspiration and abrasion of the sizing on the yarn. 4. Unraveling. Depending on the type of lace and construction, there can be unraveling of the edging on lace. This can occur from friction in normal wear or in routine cleaning procedures. Since lace is a continuous yarn, unraveling can be severe once it begins.
5. Method of attachment. If lace trimming is glued to the fabric, it is usually not durable. Drycleaning solvent dissolves the glue and causes the lace to separate.
Inspection
Examine lace at the counter for broken or weakened yarns at areas subject to friction, such as underarm, seat and hem. Examine for unraveling of lace yarn.
Examine different sections of lace trimming for two different colors or for differences in lace. Tell the customer that the differences may be accentuated after cleaning.
If a lace garment is an heirloom, there may be tender or weakened areas. Examine to determine if lace is glued on or sewn. Lace that is glued is likely to separate after cleaning. Any visible problems should be brought to the attention of the customer and a signed release should be obtained.
Drycleaning
Test solubility of beading or sequins that may be attached to the lace. Place a drop of amyl acetate on the finger and touch the beading. A sticky or tacky condition indicates it cannot be drycleaned.
Rub a cloth dampened with a little solvent on sequins or beading and note dye solubility.
Before placing a lace garment into the machine, close the zipper, secure any fasteners and cover any hooks to prevent the catching or snagging of those sharp objects in the lace or lace trim. Turn the garment inside out and place it in a net bag.
Dryclean for no more than two or three minutes in a load with very few garments or by itself. Dry no higher than 140° F and, if possible, reduce the tumbling and mechanical action. This can be done by shutting off the tumbling action and allowing only the air to circulate for cooling. Even if the lace is just a small trimming, it should be handled as above.
Spotting
When spotting lace, keep the steam gun six inches from the fabric to avoid the pressure damaging the lace. Tamp lace lightly to avoid yarn damage. When brushing face, use a silk brush or wrap cheesecloth around the bristles of a brush so a smooth surface is obtained. The bristles of a brush may damage the yarns.
If areas start to brown or if rings occur from wetside spotting, stop spotting immediately and apply a leveling agent to the area.
Allow to dry before cleaning.
Wetcleaning
Wetcleaning should be used as a correction procedure. Obtain a customer's release before processing if the lace is fragile and involves a risk in processing. Lace can shrink, change color and unravel, and weak yarns can be further weakened in wetcleaning. Soak lace in warm water (100° F) with a mild detergent and agitate by hand. Use a mild oxidizing bleach such as sodium perborate or sodium percarbonate to whiten lace that has yellowed.
Finishing
Use a spray sizing to add body to lace trimming. Use limited steaming on stitching and trimming to avoid shrinkage and puckering. Use a hand iron for touch up and head pressure for a firm press.
Summary
Lace is a fragile fabric because of its open mesh construction and fragile yarns. Weakening of the yarns can occur from age and normal use. Unraveling of edging can occur because of construction. Color loss, sizing, oxidation and method of attachment are additional problems. Customers release should be obtained if lace is determined to be a risk to process.
Why are so very few drycleaners extremely successful while most drycleaners struggle daily to pay their bills and grind out a living?
There are many ways to answer this question.
Having called on literally thousands of drycleaners in all parts of the United States, I have my own definition.
When I walk into a plant, I can immediately see reasons why the plant is not successful.
The first clue is that the place is disorderly and often filthy. Sometimes there are pins all over the counter and a half filled bottle of soda pop.
Once I step behind the front counter, I see hangers on the floor, garments lying in piles tied loosely into bundles and very often the help reflects the overall appearance of the store.
As I go though the plant, I see live steam leaking from some presses and water on the floor. There are old garments hanging on racks in the back, some with the hangers facing in the wrong direction. The invoices are yellow with age because some of these garments have been hanging there for years.
Even with all this going against them, some of these plants are doing a lot of business and appear to be making a profit. That's usually because the plant is located in a prime market in a densely populated area and convenient to many of the residents.
But I have seen successful plants like the one described above suddenly take a nose dive in sales when an aggressive operator moves into the area and has an attractive front, sharp-looking sales people and a neat and orderly plant.
The owners of the successful plants that are losing sales will tell me they don't believe in advertising. They tell me that their work speaks for itself and word of mouth advertising has paved their way to success.
They don't realize that "word of mouth advertising" is a two-way street.
Customers expect to get what they paid for and don't go running around the neighborhood extolling the virtues of the plant that does an adequate job.
On the other hand, a bad job or an improperly settled claim will get plenty of word of mouth advertising all negative.
When a new plant moves into the area and competes with the existing cleaner who has been coasting on his laurels, there is a wake up call for the existing cleaner.
They feel violated when a new competitor moves in on their turf.
Some will suddenly take a new interest in what they have to do to hold their sales. They can no longer take their customers or their help for granted. If they panic, they will start to cut their prices in an attempt to undermine the new competition. This, of course, will lead to disaster as sales and profits will decline.
If this doesn't work and they see their sales and profits declining, they will, for the first time, think of selling out while they still have something to sell.
To sell a plant, you have to resort to advertising or have a broker do the advertising for you. Just because you want to sell your plant, it doesn't mean that potential buyers will come out of the woodwork knocking on your door. The plant has to be advertised just as you have to advertise a house you want to sell.
Funny how advertising always rears its ugly head at times like this.
The help have a great deal to do with the success of a drycleaning plant.
The people at the counter should be friendly and act happy to see customers walk through the front door with a large bundle. Conversely, in some of the more run-down plants, the counter people look disappointed to see a customer with a large order coming though the front door.
It just means more work for them and they feel they are underpaid and not appreciated by the owner as it is. There is no feeling of a partnership among the employees because to them, this is only a job for pay with a dead end future.
Now, let's talk more about the successful plant.
Here the owner has taken all the employees into his or her confidence and treats them all with respect.
The owner makes it a point to keep the employees well informed of the team effort. They discuss the future for the business and all the employees share in this vision.
The help know they are part of a team and are rewarded as well as the plant can afford. The laggards don't last long as the other team members will not put up with those that don't share their vision.
This is a business fraught with problems and those plants that have programs in place to solve the problems are the ones who will succeed.
There are two types of management today. I have described both and you can decide how to rate yourself.
This can be a wake-up call as self-analysis is of great value. If a plant owner wants to improve, they have to make the effort to do the right thing.
Stan Golomb is president of The Golomb Group Inc., a firm that designs marketing programs for drycleaners. Contact him at The Golomb Group Inc., 7664 Plaza Ct., Willowbrook, IL 60521; phone (630) 887-7339. His new e-mail address is: stangolomb@golombgroup.comWhat records?
So often, there are no records to support a decision to fire an employee who has filed a discrimination charge, or records that show OSHA violations are met with discipline.
Employers need to keep personnel files that contain disciplinary records, absentee records, evaluations, and other materials that demonstrate the work history of the employee.
The same is true of employment applications, interview notes, and other materials that show why an employee was not hired. Remember that it is against the law to discriminate against employees in hiring situations as well as discharge cases.
Problems frequently arise with respect to the employment records of foreign-born workers. Ironically, it is against the law to discriminate against individuals because of national origin, but it is illegal to hire workers without proper documentation. I-9 forms need to be completed accurately and completely.
Company unions.
Under the National Labor Relations Act, if the employer discusses pay or working conditions with employee groups, he may be recognizing a company union as the bargaining representative for its employees.
Further, if the company disciplines employees for acting in concert over working conditions or pay, he faces the possibility of unfair labor practice charges prosecuted by the U.S. government.
Employers need to know that the National Labor Relations Act applies to non-union employers too. Recently, the NLRB ruled that non-union employees have the right to have a co-worker present during investigatory interviews that may result in discipline.
Unionized employees have the right currently to have a shop steward present. Failure to grant a non-union employee's request for a co-worker may taint an otherwise proper termination under the National Labor Relations Act.
Consult a labor lawyer before you deal with groups of employees or before you discipline employees for acting as a group, or for requesting co-worker assistance.
I don't have to pay for that, do I?
The federal and state wage and hour laws are almost as complicated as the tax laws.
Keep in mind that not all salaried employees are exempt from overtime, travel time might need to be compensated, employees coming in early or leaving late may be entitled to additional compensation, and docking employees pay can have dire consequences.
On top of that, deductions from employees' pay checks must be authorized in writing, and in some circumstances, deductions cannot exceed certain amounts.
What do you mean I can be sued for that?
Employers need to know that they are responsible for the negligence of their employees. In other circumstances, they may be responsible for the intentional, wrongful acts of their employees. For this reason, you have to carefully review misconduct by employees to see whether you should fire them to avoid liability in the future.
A safety program is essential. OSHA or the state-level equivalent can be an employer's worst enemy. A safety program, enforced through discipline, can be your best defense against OSHA citations.
In addition, workers' compensation costs can put an employer out of business, and a good safety program can keep insurance premiums low.
A phone call is worth a thousand dollars. So often, labor problems can be avoided by making a quick phone call to a labor lawyer. One phone call could save you thousands of dollars.
Frank Kollman is a partner in the law firm of Kollman & Sheehan, PA, in Baltimore, MD. He can be reached at (410) 727-4391. His firm's web site at www.kollman-sheehan.com has more articles and other information on employee/employer relations. The firm also has a web site for human resource professionals at www.hrlawforum.com.A stain repellent service for suedes and leathers can be a highly profitable extra service that can easily be provided by any drycleaner for their existing leather cleaning customers, even if the cleaning was done by a wholesale leather cleaner.
Suede and leather can be protected from liquid stains and soiling by spraying them with a specially formulated protective coating, such as Royal Shield, which will not change the color, will not make the leather skin stiff and will not mat down the nap of suedes.
Spray the repellent after cleaning, pressing and brushing is complete. It is the final thing done to the suede or leather item. It can be applied by any drycleaner to customer suedes and leathers even if they were cleaned by others. The repellency will last from the time it is applied until the article is recleaned.
To restore repellency, the repellent must be reapplied and the customer recharged for the application.
To apply, spray with the air spray gun set at 80 psi air pressure from a distance of approximately three inches between the spray gun nozzle and the leather surface being sprayed.
The spray gun should be moved slowly across the area of the suede or leather being sprayed. The repellent will dry rapidly after it is sprayed.
Therefore, the spray operator must be careful to get complete coverage without missing any areas.
It is also good practice to go back over the areas of greatest exposure to liquid stains and soiling. These areas include the top of the shoulders, the collar, the lapels, the outside of the sleeves, the elbows, the cuffs and the front of the garment.
Each gallon of Royal Shield will impart stain and soil repellency to approximately 16 suede or leather coats for a selling price of three to five times its cost.
The protective coating is clear in color and when dry it will provide an invisible shield of protection against staining due to spillage of beverages, food, rain shower spotting and general soiling.
Liquids will bead up and roll off the treated suede or leather surface.
Some beads of liquid may remain on the treated surface. These can be blotted up with a paper towel or other absorbent material while still in the liquid state.
If the spillage dries on the surface, the residue can probably be brushed off with a soft brush since it will be on top of the repellent shield.
Although the stain repellent will provide excellent protection from staining and soiling, it is a "repellent" and not a waterproofing -- it will not make a suede or leather a waterproof rain coat. If the treated item is exposed to prolonged heavy rain, it will eventually let the water through.
The main purpose of the repellent is to protect from liquid spillage stains rather than to make the skin impervious to prolonged exposure to liquid.
Applying sizing
Sizing suedes and leathers is another extra service that can be offered to existing leather cleaning customers to improve the look and feel of their garment.
Suede and leather can have more body and a firmer feel by spraying them with the Stif-N Suede and Leather Sizing. The sizing must be applied to the underside of suedes and leathers to prevent matting the nap or staining the surface.
In most cases, the lining must be opened to provide access to the underside of the limp suede and leather panels that need more firmness and body.
Spray the sizing full strength at 80 psi of air pressure from a distance of approximately three inches between the spray gun nozzle and the underside of any limp, drooping or wrinkled panels of skin to give them more firmness, extra body and fewer wrinkles.
The heavier the spray, the more body will be imparted. Allow to dry thoroughly, then press with a hot head press or regular press equipped with a hot head (non-perforated) grid plate. As always, do not allow live steam to contact the skin in pressing unless the steam pressure is below 45 psi.
Author's Note: The products referred to in this article are specifically formulated for use on leathers. Other products made for use on suede and leather may not give the same results when used as described in this article. Do not use products not specifically formulated for use on suede and leather.
Frank Lucenta invented the Royaltone process and created the products for his method of cleaning and finishing leather and suede. He also wrote related instruction books that document the process, "Handling Leather and Suede" and "Cleaning and Finishing Leather and Suede." He teaches plant owners and managers how to identify, accept, spot, wet clean, dry clean, press and recolor suedes, leathers, and furs to make more profit per garment than on cloth garments by using his procedures and products. For more information on training sessions or on the Royaltone instruction book or spotting charts in either English or Korean Languages, call (800) 331-5506 or e-mail frank@royaltone.com. Information is also available on the Royaltone web site at www.royaltone.com.Firing someone is usually as painful for the employer as it is for the employee. The prospect of seeing someone lose his or her livelihood is seldom pleasant.
It's hard, too, on the remaining workers. They can feel threatened or even resentful. With the employee's departure, there is a void in the workforce that can increase the rest of the crew's load. Additionally, it ran be expensive to recruit and train a replacement.
If you have to fire someone, it's important to do it right, so as to keep the peace with the workers who are left behind to carry on Where and when?
There are differing theories as to the best time of day and week to fire someone. The most common pink-slip hour is the end of the day on Friday, or Saturday if they work a six-day week.
Another theory is early in the day, early in the week. The advantage of firing someone first thing Monday morning is that the employee can begin, immediately, to look for another job instead of brooding over the weekend. This is the way I've always preferred to handle the situation, because it was to my advantage, as well as theirs, to have them find other employment ASAP.
Of course, we don't always have the luxury of waiting for an ideal time to fire an employee. Often, the situation is urgent enough that the firing must be done immediately, regardless of time.
In any case, be sure to allow some time for the employee to remove personal effects. You should either supervise their departure, or have your manager present to ensure that the only things that leave the premises are personal, not company property.
The location of the termination talk is also important. It's preferable to show the employee respect by setting up a face-to-face meeting, unless this would cause undue delay or the employee has stopped showing up to work or is a threat to the workplace.
Choose a neutral, soundproof setting, such as your office -- ideally, at a time when there will likely be fewer eavesdroppers.
Be prepared You may want a checklist or other records to refer to, but don't hide behind these. Focus on your decision; don't apologize or back pedal. These will only open the door for the employee to become aggressive towards you.
Try to defuse their anger by preserving the departing employee's self-esteem during the process. If appropriate, offer the most generous severance package you can afford. I once terminated an employee who was not competent to perform the job I had hired him for, but worked hard and really tried to succeed. I offered to pay him his regular salary for the next two weeks, while he looked for another job. He found a job, for which he was better qualified, and we parted ways with the both of us satisfied.
Once you and the employee sit down to talk, be direct and focused. It's important to convey a sense of serious purpose so the employee realizes that his dismissal is not negotiable.
At the same time, keep in mind that the news will be easier to bear if you show that you recognize this event will have a profound effect on the employee's life.
Allow the employee to vent, but not endlessly. In most situations, a firing meeting that lasts longer than 30 minutes becomes increasing unproductive.
No threats or "deals" Do not threaten an employee who implies that he might challenge a firing. It's a natural urge if a worker threatens retaliation against you or your business, but it's far wiser to stay cool and avoid any words that might trigger open warfare.
As appealing as cutting a deal may be in some circumstances, don't.
Case in point: If an employee has been fired for stealing, you may be tempted to agree not to prosecute him if he agrees not to file for unemployment compensation. Or you might feel like telling him you will withhold his final paycheck unless he agrees to move on quietly.
Resist these and similar form of persuasion, as the employment courts will invariably rule against you.
If you can prove that an employee is guilty of theft or some other illegal conduct, you must decide whether to file criminal charges independently of any employment decision you make.
Colleagues of the terminated employee deserve some sort of explanation. Pretending that nothing has happened will only fuel collective paranoia and can result in resentment towards you by the other workers.
Above all, in the firing process, it is important for you to be smart and remain calm.
Dennis McCrory works with The Golomb Group which provides direct mail and marketing services for drycleaners. They also produce the following book and video packages:
"The Caplan Method of Stain Removal"
"The Caplan Method of Shirt Laundering and Finishing."
Also available is McCrory's "Pre-employment Screening Kit."
To order any of these, call The Golomb Group, (630) 887-7339.
In my travels around this great country of ours I have an opportunity to meet many people -- many of whom work outside of the drycleaning industry. Most of these people I meet in airports, hotels and restaurants.
Because I enjoy my work and take a great deal of pride in being associated with the drycleaning industry, I always ask people if they use drycleaning services on a regular basis. The majority of people I talk to do use drycleaning services on a regular basis and, for the most part, they select their drycleaners by location, not cost. Furthermore, these consumers will remain with a cleaner even when the cleaner makes a mistake (a mistake from the customer's perspective). This is true as long as the cleaner shows some compassion for the customer's situation.
The fact of the matter is, you don't have to give your customers a reason to stay with you as much as you have to give them a reason not to leave you.
I hear you saying, "We are only human we can't be perfect all the time." This may be true, but that is not the philosophy (or foolosophy) by which you want to run your company.
If you want to grow your business, you and your employees better start to think and act "perfect" all the time. Unfortunately, only about 20 percent of the drycleaners work real hard at "being perfect all the time," while 80 percent of them act "only human." This industry is not unique in this statistic. The same can be said for lawyers, CPA's, auto mechanics, and yes, even business consultants, etc.
So, where did this 80/20 theory come from, anyway? The man responsible for the 80/20 rule is Vilfredo Pareto (July 15, 1848 August 19, 1923), an Italian economist who studied the distribution of wealth (the dude pictured here sporting the cool beard and wearing "dryclean only" threads).
In the 1890s, Mr. Pareto discovered that 20 percent of Italy's people owned 80 percent of the wealth and that 80 percent of the people shared 20 percent of the wealth. His research lead to the method of separating the major causes (the "vital few") of a condition, from the minor ones (the "trivial many").
Since Mr. Pareto's research was done, the 80/20 theory has been proven to apply to many conditions in the business world. For many drycleaners, 20 percent of their customers generate 80 percent of their sales. This statistic comes from analyzing a year's worth of data.
When it comes to employees, 80 percent of your people want to make a positive contribution to the company's success. It is management's responsibility to transform that desire into action.
How great would it be if you could get your employees to think "perfect" all the time! The good news is that with some effort you can create an attitude of "perfect" performance with your people.
I have read most of the "touchy feely" motivational books that top today's Bestseller List for Business Books. You know them: Who Moved My Cheese; Peanut Butter and Jelly Management; Fish; etc. Most of these books were designed to generate ongoing motivational programs, complete with videotapes and facilitator's manuals. They are easy to read, fun books that are supposed to motivate people to do the right thing. But these books have been dumbed down for mass market appeal and lack long-term value. They will undoubtedly create some enthusiasm -- it is not hard to create enthusiasm -- the hard part is maintaining it over the long haul.
For those of you who are interested in an excellent business book, I heartily recommend, More Than a Motorcycle (the leadership journey at Harley Davidson) by Rich Teerlink and Lee Ozley. This is not a book about motorcycles. It is a book about the financial turnaround of a company in crisis. The book chronicles the management changes at Harley from 1987 through 1999.
The changes at Harley revolved around a change from the top-down, command-and-control style of management to a style that requires input from everyone in the organization.
These changes at Harley did not happen overnight nor were they painless. The primary architect of these changes was Richard Teerlink, the company's now-retired CEO. Mr. Teerlink recognized the fact that employees spend a third of their waking hours at work.
To better understand what drives employees, management asked them what their goals and aspirations were in reference to their jobs.
Management found that the employees' goals were basically the same as management's goals. They found that employees want to make a contribution to the overall success of the company and, in exchange, they want a fair day's pay for a fair day's work. In addition, they want their relationship to the company to be long term.
Mr. Teerlink realized that "...Harley could survive and prosper only if every employee took responsibility for leading the company." Accomplishing this goal is what this book is all about.
As Mr. Teerlink so succinctly put it, "People are your only sustainable competitive advantage." You must identify the people who have a stake in the success of your business. They include your employees, your customers, your vendors and your community. Once you can wrap your brain around the idea that what is best for the stakeholders is also what is best for you, your business life will become a lot easier.
As for your employees, they will step up to the plate and help you make improvements if you are willing to share the benefits with them. Open up the lines of communication and you will be surprised at what you can accomplish when everyone starts working as a team.
Remember in the game of business the more you know the better you can play the game.
Alan Robson is a private consultant dealing with the specialized needs of the drycleaning industry. For more information, contact him by telephone at (508) 753-6619 or send e-mail to him at: alan@bizbuilderonline.com or visit the Biz Builder web site: www.bizbuilderonline.com.
Copyright © 2001, National Clothesline Maintained by: Hal Horning