PureDry with leather and suede
his consultation is the follow up and the continued testing of PureDry solvent. PureDry Solvent is a new hydrocarbon drycleaning solvent with a high flash point and unique cleaning characteristics. This consultation involved the use of this solvent for cleaning suedes and leathers. The consultation and testing brought me to a professional suede and leather cleaner, Radiant Cleaners in West Palm Beach, FL. There I had the opportunity to survey the quality offered by this cleaner. As a garment analyst and school instructor, I was quite impressed with the expertise and professionalism. The head cleaner is Rick Watson, who is quite knowledgeable in cleaning suedes and leathers.
The information given in this consultation should not be used as a medium to indicate that any cleaner can process suedes and leathers without professional know-how. Professional suede and leather cleaners
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use both drycleaning and wetcleaning processes. The process used depends on the type of leather or suede, soiling and staining that is to be removed.
The purpose of this independent test report is to determine the drycleaner’s ability to process suede and leather skins using PureDry drycleaning solvent.
The following suede and leather skins were used due to their difficulty in cleaning. Certain oil, dye setting and spotting agents were used to determine their compatibility with the solvent.
Introduction: suedes and leathers
Descriptions
• Suede:  Soft surface created by a buffing process on the inside of a hide or skin.
• Leather: Smooth outside of a skin with the hair removed.
Independent Test Report Solvent PureDry Use Textile garment cle
• Pigment: Surface color added to a suede or leather.
• Aniline Dye: Dye impregnated into the skin.
• Cuir Savage: Smooth soft aniline dyed leather.
• New Buck: Smooth leather which is buffed to create a soft nap.
• Antique: Design produced with a mottled or erratic color.
Common problems
• Mismatched skins: Different skins will be more contrasting after cleaning.
• Fading: After cleaning color loss and light fading will be more apparent.
• Shrinkage: Relaxation of stretched hides.
• Scars: Removal of original finish causes skin defects to become more apparent.
• Belly wrinkles: Poor skin quality revealed.
• Glue: Improper gluing and fusing can cause seam separation and staining.
• Thin skins: Splitting of weak and thin skins.
Evaluation of suedes and leathers
• Lambskin.
• Shearling.
• Sheepskin.
• Pigskin.
• Cowhide.
Manufacturers labels
• Armani.
An operator with knowledge of suedes and leathers will be succe
• Adrienne Vittadini.
• Ann Taylor.
• Banana Republic.
• BCBG.
• Bebe.
• Casual Comer.
• Clubhouse.
• G111.
• Gap.
• Kenneth Cole.
• Mirage.
• Ralph Lauren.
• Tommy Hilfiger.
Procedures
Inspection. Garments were examined prior to cleaning to establish a baseline observation of the condition of the suedes and leathers.
Prespotting. All wet and dry side stains were prespotted.
Classification. Mixed loads consisting of all types of suedes and leathers.
Drycleaning. Batch run with measured amount of detergent, oil and dye-setting agents. Cleaning formulas were regulated according to the type of suede, leathers and soil present.
Results matrix

Load 1
Type: Light.
Color classification: Purples and pinks..
Type of skins: Suedes, leathers.
Garments: Jackets, vests, skirts.
Cycle time: <60 minutes.
Results
Color loss: None.
Lining wrinkling: None.
Shrinkage: None.
Odor: None.
Feel (luster & softness): Excellent.
Problems: One lamb skin jacket had a slight fusing or glue transfer. This can be associated with a manufacture defect and not a cleaning problem. The problem is often correctable with recleaning.

Load 2
Type: Dark.
Color classification: Black and charcoal grays.
Type of skins: Suedes, leathers.
Garments: Jackets, vests, skirts.
Cycle time: <60 minutes.
Results
Color loss: Slight.
Shrinkage: None.
Lining wrinkling: None.
Odor: None.
Feel (luster & softness): Excellent.
Problems: None.
Comments: A printed suede jacket (Manufacturer G111) which is usually subject to print loss was not affected. Garments with fur and pile linings processed very well. A fringe trimmed jacket, which is normally subject to fringe damage, was not affected.
A black pigskin jacket with a white fabric trimming showed no color transfer.

Load 3
Type: Dark.
Color loss: None.
Color classification: Black & browns.
Type of skins: Mixed.
Garments: Denim fabrics with leather trim, polyester blouses.
Cycle time: <60 minutes.
Results
Color loss: None.
Shrinkage: None.
Lining wrinkling: None.
Odor: None.
Feel (luster & softness): Excellent.
Problems
One reversible black leather jacket with a tan lining indicated dye transfer to the lining. A brown polyester blouse with a leather collar indicated swirls, streaks and uneven drying.
Comments: Both of these problems are correctable by re-cleaning.

Load  4
Type: Dark.
Color classification: Black.
Type of skins: Suede, leathers.
Garments: Jackets, slacks.
Cycle time: <60 minutes.
Results
Color loss: Slight.
Shrinkage: None.
Lining wrinkling: None.
Odor: None.
Feel (luster & softness): Excellent.
Problems:  One pigskin jacket became unglued at the seams. This is normal for this type of improperly manufactured garment. This problem is correctable.

Load 5
Type: Light-medium.
Color classification: Tan.
Type of skins: Cowhides, lambskins.
Garments: Jackets, skirts.
Cycle time: < 60 minutes.
Results
Color loss: None.
Shrinkage: None.
Lining wrinkling: None.
Odor: None.
Feel (luster & softness): Excellent.
Problems: One garment became unglued at the seams. One garment required wetcleaning.
Comments: Both of these garment problems are correctable.
Concluding remarks
PureDry drycleaning solvent is a viable and workable alternative solvent that will be an asset for drycleaning suedes and leathers. An operator with knowledge of suedes and leathers will be successful in processing all types of garments either trimmed in or made entirely of suedes and leathers.
• Safety of 350°F flashpoint.
• Excellent hand and feel, luster and softness.
• Absence of bacteria in the system.
• Excellent drying.
• Fast cycle time; less than 60 minutes.
• Ability to safely clean leathers and suedes.
• Compatibility with existing spotting, oiling and dye setting agents.
• (+ or -) 95 percent stain removal.
• Cleaning of leathers and suedes in PureDry is better than cleaning with other hydrocarbon and silicone solvents.


Dan Eisen recently retired as chief garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after 33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars, consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be reached at (561) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail, Port St. Lucie, FL 34986.