Dan Eisen

One of the most misunderstood stains is oil and drycleaners can increase their stain removal percentage by recognizing and removing oil stains.

Drycleaners who have called me through the many years that I was involved in teaching have asked me the method for removing stubborn yellow stains. The cleaners are frustrated because they cannot recognize the oil stain, nor do they attempt the stain removal process properly.

Oil stains that give cleaners problems are referred to as oxidizing oils. They differ from petroleum-based oils which do not oxidize, e.g. mineral oil, baby oil, and motor oil.

Oxidizing oils are so named because of the molecular structure, which contains hydrogen atoms. These oils have an ability to pick up oxygen, causing the oil to oxidize or set. As a matter of fact, saturated fat is so named because its molecular structure has squeezed in the maximum of hydrogen atoms.

The oxidizing oils giving the cleaners the most problems are: sunflower oil, corn oil, canola oil, coconut oil, margarine, lard, butter, beef fat, chicken fat and pork fat.

I am often asked what causes oils to oxidize or set. The answer is heat. From experimentation with various oils I have found that when oils contact the fabric in a cold state they do not set or oxidize.


	Dan Eisen’s garment analysis FAQ Since opening an independent garment analysis service, I have received an overwhelming response. Here are answers to some of the frequent questions about this service. Q: Is this laboratory analysis truly independent with no affiliation with a drycleaning association or a drycleaning school? A: Yes. The letterhead of my analysis does not refer to a school or an association or lead the customer to think in any way that the analysis report is biased. Q: Can my customers send in the analysis without me being involved? A: Yes. Customers can use this service if they choose or send in a prior analysis for verification. Q: Do I have to be a member of a trade association to use this garment analysis service? A: No. Anyone can send in a garment analysis. Q: How long does it take? A: The analysis will be done within two days and mailed back promptly Q: What is the cost? A: $40, which includes mailing and handling for the return. Any insurance charges would be additional. Q: Do you have facilities? A: Yes. The laboratory is set up at Radiant Leather Care, Riviera Beach, FL. Q: What qualifications do you offer that make this analysis acceptable to the customer? A: Accompanying all completed analysis will be copies of front page recognition by the Wall Street Journal, New York Times, Newsday, etc. My educational background and the licenses to teach fabrics and further recognition makes me highly qualified. This is in addition to the 33 years of experience that I have had in doing garment analysis. Q: Where do I send it and how do I contact you? A: You can contact me in writing: Dan Eisen, 274 NW Toscane Trail, Port St. Lucie, FL, 34986, or by phoning me at (561) 340-0909 or e-mailing me at: cleandan@adelphia.net Garment Review For January 2002 Problem: Graying of polyester gowns in drycleaning. I have received several polyester gowns with graying and streaking that appeared to be due to redeposition of soil. The problem, however, is a micro fiber produced by Dupont. I originally tested Dupont’s micro polyester fibers and found that the best and safest way of handling them is by a wetcleaning process. There is no solution or correction for this problem. Problem: Black flocked print gown by Morgan & Co.; loss of flocked print-dryclean only label. I was invited a while back to give a seminar to the Flock Association in Las Vegas. The quick and brief message I can relate to the cleaners is that the people at the Flock Association related to me that the adhesive binder is rarely heat set or durable enough to withstand routine drycleaning procedures. You have no alternative but to obtain a customer’s release before processing any flocked print garment.

Oxidation occurs when the oil is hot or the oil stain is subjected to heat from drycleaning or pressing, or a steam gun. This frequently occurs because oil stains are mistaken for tannin stains which require wetside spotting and a steam gun.

The first step in taking out an oil stain successfully is recognizing it.

1. Light transparency. The best way I know is to hold the stained fabric up to the light so you are looking through the fabric with the light in back of it.

You should be able to recognize the oil stain because the stain becomes translucent. Oil stains are translucent while similar looking tannin stains are dark irregular with a dark outer ring.

2. Shape. We are told oil stains form a cross or a T. This is sometimes true, but not always. Oil stains follow the weave of the fabric, but in some fabrics the stain can be horizontal or vertical.

We should also be aware, when in doubt of a stain, that it is far safer to identify it as an oil stain and use the dryside work method rather than the wetside tannin.

Successful stain removal

To remove oxidized oil stains pick the proper oily type paint remover. Some are stronger than others, while others may be safer to the fabric, but not as effective. As a general rule, the darker the oily type paint remover the stronger it is.

Remember when working with oily type paint remover that if you use the steam gun or water gun the oily type paint remover will release alcohol that will damage dye on the fabric.

Note that leaving oily type paint remover on the fabric for a long period of time can cause oxidation from the moisture it picks up from the air.

Use proper mechanical action when removing oil stains.

Brushing a fabric or using a spatula is not the most effective mechanical action. Using a tamping process repeatedly and vigorously is the most effective mechanical action that can be used.

Work method

1. Apply oily type paint remover.

2. Apply mechanical tamping.

3. Apply oily type paint remover and amyl acetate.

4. Apply mechanical action: tamping.

5. Flush chemicals with volatile dry solvent into a cloth.

6. Dryclean the garment.

Dan Eisen recently retired as chief garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after 33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars, consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be reached at (561) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail, Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is cleandan@adelphia.net.