So what’s all this about
“texturing”?
There has been much controversy over an article published in National Clothesline as to the use of sizing, as we all know
it, and texturing, as we all do not know of.
At least, this writer does not know of
texturing other than what the dictionary defines it: “The
character of a fabric, determined by the arrangement, size,
etc., of its threads: as, a coarse, or ribbed, texture. 2. The
arrangement of the constituent parts of anything, as wood, a
food, etc.: structure; composition. Adjective: textured or
textural.” I could not find the word
“texturizing” either in the dictionary or computer.
After consulting with a few knowledgeable
people in the textile manufacturing area, I can only say that
those manufacturers apply lubricants and other additives to
their yarns to give them a certain hand (not handle).
 | ||
Some of these premium detergents contain
brightening agents in addition to lubricants and other
additives. These detergents are classed as anionic, cationic
and non-ionic; and they are formulated differently for
perchloroethylene, petroleum/hydrocarbon and others.
I think that the negative comments
regarding sizing used in drycleaning are addressed toward the
insoluble sizing on the market rather than the solvent-soluble
sizing that is most popular. The solvent-soluble sizing is
composed of polymeric resins that cannot clog filters or cause
other operational problems.
The solubility of any solvent-soluble
sizing must be thought of in terms of its molecular size.
Molecules in solution, even molecules of a relatively large
polymer, such as is used in most sizing, are extremely small.
These molecules are much smaller than the size of the filter
media, and they cannot be deposited onto that media.
Since molecules are measured in angstrom
units which takes 254 million angstrom units to equal one inch,
and polymers used in sizing have a diameter of approximately
two angstrom units, and a micron is equal to 10,000 angstroms,
it is obvious that a two angstrom molecule, which is typical of
a polymer used in most sizing, can easily pass through a filter
passage of 30 microns diameter. This is like a pin head passing
through a hole that is more than 1,000 times larger.
A solvent-soluble sizing does not
interfere with distillation or cause a change in solvent pH.
Sizing lends a good hand to fabrics without giving them
stiffness.
Sizing allows a crease to be prominent in
cotton and cotton/blend trousers after the manufacturer’s
texture has been removed by successive drycleaning or
wetcleaning processes.
Sizing can be added to the solvent
with an anionic drycleaning detergent as an additional charge
percentage; it can be added to a third tank of clear solvent to
be used as a batch process and then drained and extracted back
to the same tank for further use as sizing; and it can be mixed
with volatile dry solvent and placed into a spray gun for
individual application to a specific garment by the
cleaner/spotter. Note: I have used this method many times at
the spotting board as “selective sizing
applications” on garments waiting to be finished.
If more “body” is desired on a
hard finish garment that has been sized, merely the use of high
press head pressure will accomplish that task. If no firmness
is desired on a soft finish garment, merely use buck steam with
mild hand tension.
Sizing can be used in cationic injection
systems, also. This sizing is specially formulated for use with
cationic detergents.
Water-soluble sizing is an invaluable
additive to the wetcleaning process as well as for touch-up
with a hand iron on hard finish garments.
Although some operators prefer to use
water-soluble sizing in the finishing department for drycleaned
garments in the form of a spray can or spray gun, I have found
that the sizing sticks to the press covers and tables along
with the garment, and this leaves a messy and sticky condition
at the pressing machine. However, when a wetcleaned garment has
been sized by the batch, or bath, method, this condition is not
prevalent.
Water-soluble sizing for wetcleaning is
preferred over starch since the sizing gives more of a flexible
hand and does not “highlight” as starch will. Also,
water-soluble sizing will replace the original sizing used by
the fabric, or garment, manufacturer which will be removed
after many wetcleaning processes.
This condition also exists with laundry
processes of shirts and pants, but the use of a quality starch
is usually used for that type of process. However, a
water-soluble sizing can be use
Note: My spotting video,”The Caplan
Method of Stain Removal,” which includes my comprehensive
text (edited by Hal Horning) and the handy spotting board
reference, is available in English, Korean (video only) and
Spanish from the Golomb Group, c/o Dennis McCrory, 7664 Plaza
Court, Willowbrook, IL 60521, phone (800) 679-5856. This video
is actually a “Trainer in a Box” and is a complete
training course for both experienced and novice spotters. My
comprehensive text reinforces all of the background technical
material required to produce a professional spotter. Each
method of spot removal is thoroughly discussed and
demonstrated. Bleaching and use of digesters are explained in
addition to basic textile chemistry.
Also available from the Golomb Group, in
English and Spanish, is my video on step-by-step shirt
finishing which includes my comprehensive text in loose-leaf
form outlining each procedure for single-operator and
two-operator cabinet shirt units. Both units are demonstrated
using a cabinet sleever and single, or triple, heated collar
former. This procedure was developed by me for top quality with
no touchup (regular sizes) together with maximum production
without overexertion by its operators. Avoiding shrinkage,
wilting and dipping of the collar, together with its proper
“breaking and forming” on the heated collar former,
are all demonstrated. Both the collar and front buttonhole
placket, the two thickest parts of the shirt, are totally dried
under the press head with no loss of production.
Attractive detailing and packaging of the
hangered shirt, padding, steam pressure and timing are all
discussed. A unique wash formula to give whiter whites,
brighter colors and complete removal of grease and body oils is
included in the loose-leaf text book.
Stan Caplan has over 35 years experience
in his own high volume dry-cleaning, laundry and tailoring
plant and two package plants with adjoining coin-operated
laundry and dry-cleaning. He is a former chief instructor at
the International Fabricare Institute, The Southwest
Drycleaners Association School, the Illinois State Fabricare
School, the Michigan Institute of Laundering and Dry-cleaning
School, the Mississippi Fabricare Association School and
Louisiana Fabricare Association School, the Pennsylvania
Drycleaners and Launderers Association School (now
Pennsylvania-Delaware Cleaners Association), the Johannesburg
Cleaners Association School (South Africa), the Hyatt-Regency
Southeast Asia School (Singapore and Hong Kong) and numerous
short courses in all areas of the fabric care industry
throughout the US and Canada. Stan offers consulting, training
and engineering services in all areas of the fabric care
industry from customer service area to the boiler room. His
total system (TQM) encompasses maximum efficiency, economy and
product excellent quality. Stan can be reached at 3601 Clarks
Lane, Suite 307, Baltimore, MD 21215, phone/fax (410) 358-0870.;
his e-mail address is:
stancap100@aol.com.
