National Clothesline

f you understand the nature and characteristics of fabrics, you will undoubtedly avoid spotting, drycleaning and wetcleaning problems. This and following articles will deal with the problems that occur because the cleaner is unfamiliar with the sensitivity of the fabric.

Wool

Unlike other fibers, such as cotton, linen, silk and polyester, wool has scales. You can associate the overlaying structure to a collapsible telescope. Shrinkage occurs because the scales rub against one another and draw up.

Another characteristic of wool is that it is absorbent and can take in 30 percent of its weight in moisture. Wool is synonymous with sheep and the merino sheep supplies at least one-third of the world’s wool. Other breeds of sheep supply coarser wool.

Wool from other animals such as mohair producing goats, angora goats, rabbits and alpac, are known as specialty fibers.

Problems

Shrinkage. Wool requires several factors to produce shrinkage. These are moisture, heat, mechanical action, alkali and change in temperature. When more than two of the factors are present shrinkage occurs.

We are well aware that moisture and heat alone do not cause shrinkage since wool is pressed and spotted without any problems. If we now put a wool fabric in a washing machine and combine moisture, heat and mechanical action, we would observe excessive shrinkage, referred to as felting.

Discolorations. Wool is sensitive to alkali and bleach. This means that common spotting chemicals such as ammonia and protein formulas are likely to discolor the dyes on many wools. Chlorine bleach will not only discolor wool, but also deteriorate the fiber.

When a discoloration occurs with the use of an alkali, the area should be flushed thoroughly and a mild acid should be applied.

Moths. The larva of clothes moths and carpet beetles feed on the protein keratin which is the composition of wool. It is difficult to observe moth damage when inspecting at the counter because the insect cocoon contains wool fibers in their construction. When cleaned, the moth larva is removed and the damage becomes apparent.

Drycleaning. The moisture content of the drycleaning machine should be kept to a minimum. On injection type soaps (cationic), use correct amounts of soap additions since the moisture content of these soaps is high. On soaps used in a charged system (anionic), additional soap makes it safer for cleaning wool since it reduces the moisture content in the solvent.

Before cleaning a wool load, check the previous load for wrinkling in linings, which is an indicator of moisture in the solvent. Clean wools on a three- to five-minute run and dry at 140°F.

Use net bags when wool is constructed with a loose knit construction.

Spotting. Use a digester instead of ammonia on protein or albuminous stains to avoid discoloration. On tannin stains, acids are usually safe, but test vivid colors.

Rust remover will often discolor the dyes on cashmere.

On soft napped fabrics, angle the spotting brush to avoid chafing and matting of the fabric. This means that the outer edge of the brush is the only part of the brush that is rubbing against the fabric.

Prespotting. Make sure the garment is dry and free of water before entering into the drycleaning machine.

Wetcleaning. Use acid-based nonionic or cationic detergents when wetcleaning wools. These detergents supply wool with the proper lubrication so the risk of shrinkage is reduced. The acid is used to stabilize the dyes in wool. Use warm water and very little agitation to avoid shrinkage.

Remember, top-loading home washing machines do not have a gentle enough agitation to avoid shrinkage. Home products such as Woolite are not suitable products for cleaning wools since they are alkaline in nature and anionic in composition. Dry in a dryer at 120°F for one to three minutes) — no longer.

Finishing and blocking. Wool knit fabrics can be stretched easily by steaming fabric, pulling and then drying. When blocking in a stretched area, the stretched area should be gathered in, steamed, and, with a hand pad, patted down and vacuumed dry.

When attempting to stretch a wool that is matted or felted the fabric should be soaked in a cationic softening agent.

While damp, the fabric should be placed on the pressing machine, steamed, pulled, and vacuumed dry.

Dan Eisen recently retired as chief garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after 33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars, consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be reached at (772) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail, Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is cleandan@adelphia.net.