National Clothesline

y international independent garment analysis service receives more problems concerning silk than any other fiber. In the 35 years that I have been doing garment analysis, this fact has not changed.

We know that processing silk is a difficult task — we classify an expert spotter as a silk spotter or an expert finisher as a silk finisher. Avoiding problems with silks requires an understanding of the fiber and its characteristics. With a thorough understanding you should be able to spot, dryclean or wetclean silks with confidence.

Facts about silk

Silk is universally accepted as “the luxury fabric.” A good quality silk fabric has a desirable hand and draping quality, which serves as a standard by which to measure silk-like man made fibers.

Silk can be expanded into different fabrics depending upon the type of filament produced by the silkworm, the weave and special manufacturing processes.

Cultivated silk is a smooth fiber created by the silkworm who leads a coddled and controlled life feeding on mulberry leaves.

Tussah wild silk is a tan-colored fiber from the uncultivated silkworm which feeds on scrub oak. Shantung and silk pongee are made from wild silk.

Sueded silk is a soft textured silk created by an abrasion of the surface texture or by sand washing.

Bonded silk is a silk which has been fused to a backing fabric to give the garment additional weight, hand and shape retention.

Garment analysis

Fabric problems received by my analysis service include the following:

Mismatched silk suits. Complaints of one part of the silk suit being different in color and feel can often be associated with differences in the silk fabric used. Often when only one part of the suit is bonded there will be differences from other portions of the suit which have not been bonded.

Bonded silks can result in separation, discoloration or develop staining from improperly applied resins used in manufacture.

Solvent soluble dyes. Poorly dyed fabrics result in dye loss and dye transfer even in routine drycleaning.

Water soluble dyes. Tweed jackets and iridescent garments that incorporate light and dark silk fibers are often fugitive to moisture. Contact with moisture can cause the dye to migrate producing a large discolored area.

Dye bleeding may occur especially in printed silks where the dyes are fugitive. It may occur in areas such as underarm due to perspiration or could occur in spotting.

Yarn shifting and yarn slippage results from a loose fabric weave and fine yarns.

Fabric degradation and discoloration result from contact from chloride salts and perspiration, some beverages and food. Silk draperies and other household items may show the greatest degree of degradation from exposure to sunlight and atmospheric gases.

Improper spotting causes chafing, discoloration and dye bleeding. This results from improper spotting chemicals, use of the steam gun and spotting brushes.

Identification

The burn test for silk is to bring a sample piece of fabric to the tip of the flame. Silk will sputter and will smell like burning hair or feathers. The black ash is easily pulverized between the fingers, unlike man-made fibers which melt to a hard bead and cannot be crushed.

Inspection

Examine silk garments at the counter for dye loss, fading, dye bleeding and chafing. Check for fading from light and atmospheric gases by comparing exposed areas with unexposed areas. Even new garments may show some fading. Discolorations may be found in underarm areas, waistline and other areas where perspiration normally occurs.

Yarn or seam slippage may be found in areas subject to strain and tension such as the hips, back, sleeve or elbow. Be sure to note all problems on the sales slip when receiving the garment.

Drycleaning

Test dark multi-colored silks before cleaning. Dampen a towel with volatile dry solvent and gently dab an unexposed area of the garment. Note dye transfer to towel.

Silk must be cleaned only when solvent temperature is below 80°F. High solvent temperatures produce dye bleeding and dye loss. Clean silks three to five minutes in a moisture-free load.

Drying temperatures should not exceed 140°F. When using injection soap the quantity of soap added must be comfortably controlled since the moisture content of the soap is high. The batch time must also be reduced to prevent dye loss and bleeding.

Spotting

All spotting procedures must be used with caution as dye fastness of silk may be unpredictable.

To test the dye fastness to wetside spotting, flush with steam gun into a white towel. Observe the towel for dye bleeding to determine if further spotting procedure can be used.

For wetside staining, use a neutral lubricant or glycerine.

When tamping or brushing silks it is advisable to use a special padded brush (no bristles) or wrap a cheesecloth around a bristle brush so a padded surface is obtained. Do not use spatulas as permanent abrasion and fabric damage can occur.

Make sure that the fabric is perfectly smooth while applying mechanical action since yarn damage and shifting can occur. When removing protein stains it must be noted that alkali and protein formulas have the greatest potential to discolor dyes on silks.

Use low temperature powdered enzymes when attempting protein stain removal on silk. Use a leveling agent to prevent rings and clean only when fabric is perfectly dry.

Dryside spotting agents are generally safe to silk provided no water is used. When water is used, it activates the alcohol in paint removers causing dye damage.

Wetcleaning

Most silks can be wetcleaned. Avoid wetcleaning chiffon, taffeta, crepe and satin. Avoid wetcleaning wedding gowns when they are beaded since finishing may be troublesome. Avoid wetcleaning silk suits because shrinkage of the lining may occur. Use a cationic detergent and warm water (100°F). Extract and dry to 90 percent.

Finishing

Finish when fabric is slightly damp. When spraying water on silk, do not spray directly on the fabric. Spray in the air and let moisture settle on the fabric.

To avoid shine, finish on the opposite side of the fabric. Use hot heads if available and high temperature irons with micro switches.

Dan Eisen recently retired as chief garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after 33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars, consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be reached at (772) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail, Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is cleandan@adelphia.net.