National Clothesline

Part 1

I have written several articles on what contributes to quality finishing of drycleaned garments. This series will describe, in step-by-step detail, the procedures for finishing popular garments using several types of equipment.

But before we continue with the actual procedures, I would like to review some of the basic principles that comprise a quality finish:

1. Restoring the garment, as nearly as possible, to its original new shape.

2. Removing, or eliminating, all shine.

3. Removing all button, pocket and seam impressions.

4. Replacing creases in their proper place.

5. Proper use of steam, heat, moisture, vacuum and head pressure.

6. Leaving soft fabrics soft and hard fabrics hard.

7. Avoiding stretching of knits.

Steam pressure of 70 psig is ideal since higher steam pressures are too hot and dry, and low steam pressures are too wet. A steam pressure regulating valve should be used to maintain a constant 70 psig while your boiler can be operated at a higher “off-on” steam pressure.

Air pressure of 80 psig to 85 psig at the press is ideal for quick head movement. Also, the air pressure regulator should be installed after the air compressor for a constant pressure since it is operated at a higher “off-on,” or constant running with unloader for “cut-in and cut-out.”

Of course, this regulator is in addition to an air filter, drier and cooler. To ensure very little pressure drop from the compressor to the finishing units, the air header should be two pipe sizes in diameter larger than the compressor’s tank outlet. If the run of the header is considerably long, then the regulator should be set at 5 psig to 10 psig more than the 80 psig to 85 psig required at the unit.

Each pressing machine should have its air feed line equipped with an air filter and pressure gage; and this gage should be observed daily by the finisher and manager for proper air pressure. The air filter should be checked for release of moisture to ensure long life of the discs and cylinders, etc.

In finishing, there are three types of pressing machine head pressures used:

1. Contact: The head lightly touching the buck and with steam applied.

2. Medium: Contact pressure with steam applied then followed with steam applied with one second to two seconds of high pressure.

3. High or Lock: High head pressure for several seconds and with steam applied.

Use contact pressure after saturating a soft-finish garment with buck steam. Release the head and apply vacuum while holding the fabric taut with your two hands.

Use medium pressure on lightweight, medium weight and fairly-hard finish garments. Release the head after applying head steam, then apply vacuum while holding the fabric taut with your two hands (if required).

Use high or lock pressure on very hard finish, tightly-woven fabrics. Cotton and cotton/polyester blend pants, such as khakis, and dress shirts and blouses that are usually laundered are examples of very hard finish, tightly-woven fabrics.

Worsted wool is an example of a rather hard finish fabric. For worsted wool, apply buck steam to smooth the fabric with your hands, apply vacuum to hold the fabric to the buck, close the press head against the buck under high pressure, release the vacuum, apply head steam for about two to three seconds, release the head and immediately apply vacuum for several seconds to cool while holding the fabric taut with your two hands.

For very hard finish, tightly-woven cotton and linen fabrics, use the above procedure, except you can apply the vacuum while the head is down against the buck in high pressure for about five seconds and then continue holding the vacuum as the press head is released for about four seconds while holding the fabric taut with your two hands.

Never apply steam and vacuum at the same time in order to avoid swirls and moray in the fabric as well as unnecessary loading of the vacuum unit with excess moisture.

Garment separation for finishing

After the cleaning machine is unloaded and a new load of garments is being cleaned, the cleaner/spotter will begin to inspect each garment for spots. As each garment has passed inspection, it is hung on the unfinished rail to be sent to the finishing units.

During this procedure, the spotter begins to form the various groups of garments according to the appropriate finishing units: all pants and slacks together, all short jackets together, all skirts together, etc. When the load has been inspected and sorted, the garments are distributed to the appropriate finishing unit.

Garments are classified for finishing units as follows:

1. Pants, Slacks —†Pants unit.

2. Suit Coats, Overcoats, Heavy jackets — Coat unit.

3. Shirts, Sweaters, Light Jackets, Heavy Skirts, etc. — Utility unit.

4. Dresses, Blouses, Robes, Lightweight Skirts, Etc. — Silk unit.

Note: In a small plant the coat unit and utility unit are usually combined, and in a very small plant the coat unit, utility unit and silk unit are usually combined.

Composition of finishing units

Pants unit (Configuration #1): steam-air topper, utility legger press (with sleeve board, all-steam iron, water gun, hanger chain), men’s puff iron (vacuum recommended).

Pants unit (Configuration #2): tensioning-type steam-air topper/legger, steam-air-vacuum ironing board (with sleeve board, steam iron, water gun).

Coat unit (Configuration #1: Steam-air form finisher (Hoffman Coat-A-Matic recommended, tensioning-type, conventional-type), right hand utility press (with sleeve board, steam iron, water gun, hanger chain), three-way puff set (with fabric heads and vacuum), vertical bag sleever. Note: This unit is also an all-purpose, utility unit.

Coat unit (Configuration #2): Steam-air form finisher (tensioning-type), steam-air-vacuum ironing board (with sleeve board, steam iron, water gun), three-way puff set (with fabric heads and vacuum).

Note: The three-way puff set should have fabric heads and vacuum for better quality in finishing than the set with no vacuum.

Silk unit (Configuration #1): Steam-air form finisher (tensioning-type, conventional-type), left hand utility press (with sleeve board, steam iron, water gun, hanger chain), mushroom steam head press (with water gun, hanger chain), three-way puff set (with fabric heads and vacuum), vertical bag sleever.

Silk unit (Configuration #2): Steam-air form finisher (tensioning-type), steam-air-vacuum ironing board (with sleeve board, steam iron water gun), three-way puff set (with fabric heads and vacuum).

Note: A mushroom steam head press is recommended in order to finish the bodice of a dress that requires pressure.

Silk unit, hot head: Left hand, hot head, utility press (with vacuum, sleeve board, steam iron, water gun, hanger chain); hot head mushroom press (with vacuum, steam iron, water gun, hanger chain); three-way puff set (with polished puffs, fabric heads, vacuum, water gun, hanger chain).

Correcting common problems

Shine and seam impressions. These are caused, on napped fabrics, by very high head pressure or vacuuming while the head is down against the buck and steam is still in the garment. Hard padding or burned pads and covers will not absorb seam or button impressions nor permit vacuum to extract the steam from the garment.

To correct, steam and brush with a soft-bristled brush or a fine spray of water before light steaming. Shine caused by “wear” is most difficult, if not impossible, to remove, but, sometimes, light rubbing with 00 sandpaper and steaming will improve that condition.

Delustering of satin. This is caused by spraying the satin side of a fabric with water and then steaming from the buck or head. Always steam from the buck first and then spray with water while steam is in the fabric (if needed) to avoid delustering, especially acetate satin.

To correct, lightly spray the delustered area with water, or solution of acetic acid and water (one part 28% acetic to two parts water), and use a hand iron without shoe or use a hot head press. Do not steam from the buck or head.

Leave-off marks. This is the result of using contact head pressure, or no head pressure, on one area of a garment and high head pressure on an adjoining area.

Also, over-steaming causes a softened appearance on areas already finished. The problem arises almost every time a soft-finish pair of pants is topped on a steam-air topper and then legged on an automatic, or manual, legger press using top steam, high head pressure and vacuum while the head is down (even for a few seconds).

To correct, steam over the area where the soft finish area meets the hard finish area. A men’s shoulder puff in the pants unit is an absolute must to steam out the leave-off marks.

Heavy pocket impressions. These are caused by top steam under medium, or high, head pressure against the buck whether vacuum is applied or not. It mostly occurs on lightweight fabrics.

To correct, apply buck steam and then apply vacuum using hand tension. The flap of a suit coat can be backed off the buck, leaving the flap impression on the buck, so that another lay with the head touching the entire pocket area can be made, thus removing the flap impression.

Buttons mashed into the fabric. The buttons are embedded into the fabric leaving a puckered appearance under the buttons. This is caused by steaming (top or buck) while the head is down, under either medium, or high, pressure. This problem is prevalent in the button side front panel of a suit coat.

To correct, raise the buttons with the forefinger and thumb as soon as the head is raised and while the vacuum is being applied. On stubborn areas, apply a little buck steam and then vacuum after the head is raised and while picking up the buttons with your fingers.

Puckers in coat collars. These appear as a stretched, rippled effect around the crease due to stretching during wear.

To correct, using a steam-air form finisher with a collar-shoulder pressing attachment (manufactured by Hoffman, “Coat-A-Matic”) will avoid the problem, or on the large or small end of the utility press (depending on the size of the collar).

Place collar on wide end of the buck of the utility press and make sure that the center seam of the yoke runs down the center of the buck, the gorge seams (where the collar is sewed to the lapel) are both on the pressure points of the buck, and only one inch of the back of the collar beyond the rear edge is on the buck.

Apply buck steam and work the extra fabric as flat as possible. Apply vacuum to hold the collar to the buck, lower the head to contact pressure, release the vacuum, apply buck steam, apply high head pressure (medium pressure on soft finish fabrics), raise the head and apply vacuum

If the coat is small, the collar can be finished on the small end of the utility press by head contact on the back of the collar and the two ends finished with the hand iron or by head contact on each end. Note: Finishing a suit coat was described in detail in my articles for December 1999 through March 2000.

Without the use of the Hoffman Coat-A-Matic, this collar lay should be made before dressing the coat on the tensioning, or conventional, steam-air form finisher.

Double creases in pants. These are easier to put in than they are to recognize and remove.

If the pants crease is not put in exactly in the same position as the original crease, you will make a double crease. Except in very rare cases, the pants legs were factory creased, front and back, by first setting the side seams at "seam-to-seam” before setting in the two creases on a special pressing machine.

Many times as the pants were pressed by different pressers at various drycleaners, the creases were pressed in at slightly different positions on the pants leg, thus making a double crease. This double crease was not noticed immediately after pressing, but it was noticed after the garment had been settled for a while on the hanger or when the wearer put it on.

To correct, place the leg over a sleeve puff iron with the creases up and steam while holding the leg taut. Apply vacuum while holding the leg taut (if available).

If a sleeve puff iron is not available, use buck steam on the pressing machine, spray lightly with water, then vacuum using both hands for tension, then lower the head to high pressure (medium for soft finish fabrics), apply top steam, raise the head and apply vacuum simultaneously.

When to use top or buck steam

Soft-finish fabrics and ribbed or gabardine weaves should be steamed from the buck against the head to avoid “packing down.” Head pressure can be either contact or medium, as required. Napped fabrics are finished best by applying buck steam and then vacuuming under hand tension without the use of the press head.

Hard and medium finish fabrics, including worsted wool, satin and taffeta, should be finished with top steam while the head is down. Weaves with a natural sheen, such as hard finish cotton, or cotton/polyester blend, and satin should be finished by applying steam and then vacuuming while the head is down under high pressure to enhance the sheen. These weaves are best finished on a press with a polished hot head rather than a grid plate steam press.

Remember two important facts: Quality work takes more time and patience than shoddy work, and consumers want quality work no matter what price they pay.

Note: My spotting video, “The Caplan Method of Stain Removal,” which includes my comprehensive text and handy spotting board reference available in English, Spanish and Korean (video only in Korean) from the Golomb Group, c/o Dennis McCrory, 7664 Plaza Court, Willowbrook, IL 60521, phone (800) 679-5856. A lecture and demonstration are presented similar to my classes over the years at IFI and SDA. This video and text are ideal for training inexperienced spotters as well as a good review for experienced spotters. Digesting with enzymes, bleaching, oxidized oil stains and caramelized sugar stains are discussed and demonstrated. An article on “Removing Spots in the Cleaning Machine” and an article on “How to Increase Production in the Spotting Department” are included in the comprehensive text book.

Also available from the Golomb Group, in English and Spanish, is my video on step-by-step shirt finishing which includes my comprehensive text in loose-leaf form outlining each procedure for single-operator and two-operator cabinet shirt unit using a cabinet sleeve press. Proper forming of the collar using heated collar formers is demonstrated. Each lay is demonstrated for top quality with very little effort by the operators. Attractive detailing and packaging of the hangered shirt, padding, steam pressures and timing are all discussed. A unique wash formula for whiter whites and brighter colors and removal of grease and body oils is included in the loose-leaf text book.

My experience with shirts spans over 55 years with US Army as a principal laundry and dry-cleaning concessionaire at Ft. Meade, MD, where average shirt volume was approximately 10,000 per day. We were constantly “sampled” for excellent quality in both finishing and washing in laundry and drycleaning and in tailoring.

We operated our own 40,000-sq.-ft. plant for over 35 years.

Note: My spotting video, “The Caplan Method of Stain Removal,” which includes my comprehensive text and the handy spotting board reference, is available in English, Korean (video only) and Spanish (video only) from the Golomb Group, c/o Dennis McCrory, 7664 Plaza Court, Willowbrook, IL 60521, phone (800) 679-5856. A lecture and demonstration are presented similar to my classes over the years at IFI and SDA. This video and text are ideal for training inexperienced spotters as well as a good review for experienced spotters.

Also available from the Golomb Group, in English and Spanish, is my video on step-by-step shirt finishing which includes my comprehensive text in loose-leaf form (English only) outlining each procedure for a single-operator and two-operator cabinet shirt unit using a cabinet sleever. Proper forming of the collar using heated collar formers is demonstrated. Each lay is demonstrated for top quality with very little effort by the operators. Attractive detailing and packaging of the hangered shirt, padding, steam pressures and timing are all discussed. A unique wash formula to give whiter whites, brighter colors and total removal of grease and body oils is included in the loose-leaf note book.

Stan Caplan has over 35 years experience in his own high volume dry-cleaning, laundry and tailoring plant and two package plants with adjoining coin-operated laundry and drycleaning. Stan is the former chief instructor at the International Fabricare Institute, the Southwest Drycleaners Association and various other trade association-sponsored schools throughout the US and courses in Canada, Mexico, South Africa, Singapore and Hong Kong. Stan offers consulting, training and engineering services in all areas from customer service area to the boiler room since 1981. His complete system withtotal quality management will produce maximum efficiency, economy and product excellent quality. Stan can be reached at 3601 Clarks Lane, Suite 307, Baltimore, MD 21215, phone/fax (410) 358-0870. His e-mail address is stancap100@aol.com.