Procedures for quality finishing
Part 3
Proper finishing of cottons, linens,
taffetas and satins
Part 2 of this series concluded with
quality control in silk finishing. This article continues with
a more detailed explanation for finishing of cottons, linens,
taffetas and satins. These fabrics require, as stated before, a
crisp, smooth finish. The fibers can be silk, cotton, linen,
polyester, acetate and blends.
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To produce a firm, tightly woven fabric,
the yarns are set close together, and producing a hard finish
helps retain this firmness.
In a plain weave, single filling yarns
(horizontal) are interlaced with single warp yarns (vertical).
Taffeta, cotton broadcloth and linens are plain weaves.
Finishing these fabrics requires the use of smooth, hot
surfaces and high pressure from the press head, or hand iron,
to create the “hard” finish.
In a satin weave, loosely twisted yarns in
either the warp or filling direction are allowed to
“float” over four to eight filling or warp yarns.
The loose twist of the yarns and the floating construction
allow the fibers to reflect a maximum amount of light, giving
the fabric a lustrous appearance. A smooth, crisp surface
should be used when finishing to preserve this luster.
To retain luster and prevent undesired
shine, black and dark-colored satins should be finished on the
reverse side. Satins in white or pastel colors should be
finished on the face side.
Synthetic fibers other than polyester can
be a particular problem since the heat of the press head can
damage them after only three or four seconds. Fabrics made of
synthetic fibers — even if blended with other fibers
— may require a hard finish if they are woven into satin
or similar weaves. Fibers such as silk, nylon, polyester and
acetate are frequently given a hard finish.
Equipment used for a hard finish
The silk units described in Part 1 of this
series (May 2003) can all be used to achieve a satisfactory
hard finish. However, my favorite is the silk unit, hot head,
as described therein: left hand, hot head utility press (with
vacuum, buck steam, sleeve board, all steam or steam-electric
iron, sleeve ironing board, water gun and hanger chain); hot
head mushroom press (with vacuum, buck steam, all steam or
steam-electric iron, water gun and hanger chain); three-way
puff set (with polished puffs, fabric heads, vacuum, water gun
and hanger chain).
To absorb seam impressions from the high
pressure, heat and vacuum, a nylon or cotton flannel cover
could be sewn with a drawstring and stretched over the buck of
the utility press and mushroom press.
Note: If using the steam/vacuum/up air
ironing board, the up air feature applied while hand ironing a
seam will also avoid seam impressions, but the other areas of
the garment should be pressed more firmly using the vacuum
under heavy hand ironing pressure.
Remember, to avoid de-luster of satin you
must not spray water onto the fabric before you steam from the
buck: always steam first and then spray with water (if
required).
Also, a very important pressing machine in
a silk unit is the mushroom press since this is the only piece
of equipment that can finish the bodice (upper portion) of a
dress with the same hard finish as the skirt portion.
However, if no mushroom is available, you
can hand finish the bodice on a well equipped finishing board,
or on the buck of the utility press, with a hand iron since you
will need to skip the skirt portion. Pressing with the head of
a utility press will not suffice for the complete bodice.
Steps to achieve a hard finish
Using a hot head press:
1. Apply buck steam to straighten wrinkles
or distortions with your hands.
2. Apply vacuum to remove steam from
garment.
3. Hold the vacuum and apply a fine water
spray to the area being pressed (hold the water gun high and
quickly wave it horizontally across the area). Too much water
concentrated in one area will result in light brown marks or
circles.
4. Continue to hold the vacuum and close
the press head on high pressure for about 10 to 12 seconds.
Note: Holding the vacuum pedal down shortens the pressing time.
5. While still holding the vacuum pedal
down, raise the press head and continue the vacuum for about
five seconds.
6. Always move the garment away from you
when making the lays.
7. On dresses and blouses, always press
the collar, cuffs and sleeves first. However, on a large, or
puffed, sleeve, using a vertical bag sleever would be much
easier and faster than hand ironing on the sleeve ironing
board. The slight difference in hardness of finish would not
affect the overall appearance to a great extent.
Using a finishing board (buck steam, up
air, vacuum, water gun, sleeve board, hanger chain):
1. Apply buck steam and vacuum as needed
to straighten wrinkles and distortions with your hands.
2. Use water spray gun as described for
the hot head press above.
3. Apply vacuum while hand ironing with
maximum hand pressure. Use continuous pats rather than
continuous sliding motion to avoid distortion. Use the up air
feature on seams.
4. Press collar, cuffs and sleeves first.
5. If dress has a large, or puffed,
sleeve, use the vertical sleeve finisher.
Using the silk unit (configuration #1
— grid plate head press):
1. Apply buck steam to straighten wrinkles
or distortions with your hands.
2. Apply vacuum and hold garment tightly
against the buck.
3. Hold the vacuum and apply water spray
as described for the hot head press.
4. While holding the vacuum, lower the
press head on high head pressure.
5. Release the vacuum pedal. IMPORTANT!
6. Apply head steam for two to three
seconds while head is down in high head pressure.
7. Apply vacuum while head is down in high
head pressure for seven seconds. Note: Do not steam and apply
vacuum at the same time.
8. While holding the vacuum pedal down,
release the press head and continue the vacuum for five
seconds.
As I have written several times in this
series, the silk finishing process is impossible to measure in
terms of production time. Softer finish fabrics take much less
production time to finish than the hard finish fabrics. Fancy
garments, form-fitted blouses and skirts, pleated skirts, lined
skirts, puffed sleeves, pleated cuffs, bias cut skirts and many
other variations of attire each have a unique procedure for
finishing.
I remember in the old days when most of
the finishers in the plant were men for men’s clothing,
but the women’s clothes always got a “woman’s
touch.” I think that was the case because women seem to
have more patience for detailed finishing than the men, at
least, that was my case. However, when I was designated as the
finishing instructor at IFI, that was another “ball
game,” and I overcame that impatience with great success.
Note: My spotting video, “The
Caplan Method of Stain Removal,” which includes my
comprehensive text and handy spotting board reference available
in English, Spanish and Korean (video only in Korean) from the
Golomb Group, c/o Dennis McCrory, 7664 Plaza Court,
Willowbrook, IL 60521, phone (800) 679-5856. A lecture and
demonstration are presented similar to my classes over the
years at IFI and SDA. This video and text are ideal for
training inexperienced spotters as well as a good review for
experienced spotters. Digesting with enzymes, bleaching,
oxidized oil stains and caramelized sugar stains are discussed
and demonstrated. An article on “Removing Spots in the
Cleaning Machine” and an article on “How to
Increase Production in the Spotting Department” are
included in the comprehensive text book.
Also available from the Golomb Group, in
English and Spanish, is my video on step-by-step shirt
finishing which includes my comprehensive text in loose-leaf
form outlining each procedure for single-operator and
two-operator cabinet shirt unit using a cabinet sleeve press.
Proper forming of the collar using heated collar formers is
demonstrated. Each lay is demonstrated for top quality with
very little effort by the operators. Attractive detailing and
packaging of the hangered shirt, padding, steam pressures and
timing are all discussed. A unique wash formula for whiter
whites and brighter colors and removal of grease and body oils
is included in the loose-leaf text book.
My experience with shirts spans over 55
years with US Army as a principal laundry and dry-cleaning
concessionaire at Ft. Meade, MD, where average shirt volume was
approximately 10,000 per day. We were constantly
“sampled” for excellent quality in both finishing
and washing in laundry and drycleaning and in tailoring.
We operated our own 40,000-sq.-ft. plant
for over 35 years.
Stan Caplan has over 35 years experience
in his own high volume dry-cleaning, laundry and tailoring
plant and two package plants with adjoining coin-operated
laundry and drycleaning. Stan is the former chief instructor at
the International Fabricare Institute, the Southwest
Drycleaners Association and various other trade
association-sponsored schools throughout the US and courses in
Canada, Mexico, South Africa, Singapore and Hong Kong. Stan
offers consulting, training and engineering services in all
areas from customer service area to the boiler room since 1981.
His complete system withtotal quality management will produce
maximum efficiency, economy and product excellent quality. Stan
can be reached at 3601 Clarks Lane, Suite 307, Baltimore, MD
21215, phone/fax (410) 358-0870. His e-mail address is stancap100@aol.com.
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