Solving problems related to acetate
cetate is often
confused with rayon. Acetate and rayon are both manufactured
from cellulose, a compound obtained from natural sources such
as cotton and wood pulp. The cellulose used for rayon is only
physically changed from cellulose, but chemically the same as
natural cellulose.
 | ||
The term triacetate may be used as a
generic description of the fiber.
Acetate has a look similar to silk. It is
popularly blended with rayon, but can also be blended with
other fibers, including silk and polyester.
Acetate is widely used in gowns and
evening wear due to its crisp hand, feel and its look of silk.
It is also used for crepe, velvet, satin and taffeta weaves. It
is used in blouses, skirts and suits (both men’s and
women’s). It is also very commonly used in draperies
blended with rayon.
Consumer problems
• Fume fading. Disperse dyes used for acetate are affected by gases
(nitrogen oxide) in the atmosphere. Blues and grays may turn
pink and greens may turn brown. This can occur when a
garment is hanging in a closet or when
packed away.
| ||||
• Alcohol
acetate is readily affected by
alcohol found in deodorants, perfumes and liquor.
• Velvet
distortion. Acetate will distort
permanently from contact with moisture and pressure.
• Nail
polish remover. Acetate will
dissolve when in contact with nail polish remover due to the
acetone composition.
• Deterioration. During manufacture, titanium dioxide is
added to the acetate fiber to deluster the fiber. Delustered
acetate is easily damaged by sunlight and conditions in normal
wear. This is why some acetate linings fall apart and shred
easily. Bright acetate is more resistant to these conditions.
Spotting problems
• Strong acetate acid can discolor
and even dissolve acetate when the solution is greater than
28%.
• Oily type paint remover and water
releases alcohol which can damage acetate. Some manufacturers
produce spotting agents with an acetone or alcohol base that
can damage acetate.
• General formula contains alcohol
and can damage acetate fiber.
Finishing problems
Hot head presses and some hand irons can
fuse and melt the acetate fiber. Finishing procedures using
heat and pressure can cause shine or produce a moire or grain
effect on the leg of slacks. Steam on acetate while wet or damp
can cause the area to deluster and discolor.
Identification
Acetate can be identified as a
thermoplastic fiber by the burn test. A sample piece of fabric
from an unexposed seam is held to a lit match. A hard bead that
is difficult to crush indicates the thermoplastic properties. A
more conclusive test is to saturate the sample with acetone. If
the fabric fully or partially dissolves it is acetate or a
blend.
Inspection
Examine acetate and blends for light or
atmospheric gas fading. The dyes tend to discolor to a reddish
pink.
Examine the shoulder and sleeve area and
compare it with an unexposed area to detect fading.
Examine neckline and underarm area for
color loss due to alcohol, perspiration and deodorants.
Examine acetate velvets for flattened
areas. Shirts that are labeled acetate or blends should not be
sent to commercial laundries because the heat used will
adversely affect the acetate.
Drycleaning
Run three to four minutes in cool solvent
between 75 and 80°F. Dry at no higher than 140°F.
Immediately hang after drying to prevent wrinkles. Acetate is
not affected by chlorinated or hydrocarbon solvent. Some other
solvents, such as glycol ether or CO2, may affect
acetate.
Spotting
Hold the steam gun at least six inches
from acetate fabric to avoid distortion, fusing or changing the
yarn texture. Limit mechanical action by tamping lightly with a
silk spotting brush or wrap a towel around a regular brush. Do
not use a bone or a spatula which will alter or flatten the
yarn. Allow wet area to dry before drycleaning.
Wetcleaning
Acetate is usually safe to wetclean except
velvet and pile fabrics. Blends such as acetate blended with
silk may cause problems. The fabric may bleed due to the silk
content. Use a mild detergent in water at 100°F. Do not
wring or extract the garment. Instead hang to dry. Do not use
steam before the garment has dried. Delustering or color loss
may occur. To insure safety to wetcleaning, the dyes on dark
and multicolored fabrics should be tested.
Finishing
Steam acetate fabric lightly. Limit top
head pressure to avoid shine. Be alert for moisture leaks in
the equipment or delustering may result. Do not spray moisture
on the fabric while steaming. Hand irons must be cool for touch
up even if covered with a teflon shoe.
Correction procedures
1. If an area
of acetate is slightly discolored, correction is sometimes
possible. Spray affected area with a mild acetic acid (14%).
Hang to dry and then reclean.
2. For
wrinkles, soak the garment in water with a mild detergent and a
little acetic acid. Rinse and then tumble in a warm dryer.
3. To correct
flattened acetate velvet, use a stiff brush and no moisture.
Brush in the direction of the lay of the pile.
4. Bleaching? Most bleaches can be
used on acetate. Use a mild chlorine bleach to avoid yellowing.
If yellowing occurs use sodium hydrosulphate as an antichlor.
Dan Eisen recently retired as chief
garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after
33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars,
consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has
published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is
an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National
Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be
reached at (772) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail,
Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is cleandan@adelphia.net.
 |
