Procedures for quality finishing
Part 6
Finishing Pants with an Automatic Topper,
Legger Press and Puff Unit
 | ||
This article works with the original unit,
which does not include the tensioning type pants topper;
however, that type of pants topper can be used together with
the automatic legger press or the steam, up-air, vacuum ironing
board to set front and back leg creases.
Remove the pants from the hanger hook or
pants horse
and place on topper.
and place on topper.
1. Grasp the pants at the side seams with
both hands with the thumbs inside the waistband and the fingers
outside the waistband.
2. Move the hands apart, and remove the
pants from the hanger hook or horse.
3. Position the pants in the back of the
topper.
4. Slide the pants up over the topper and
button the waistband button, or clamp the waistband hook and
eye, or hold the two waistband fronts together with the
forefingers of each hand and clamp the attached front clamp by
activation (whichever type of topper you have).
5. Hold out the back of the waistband taut
with both hands if a floor pedal is activated, or hold out the
back with one hand and activate the expander button if your
topper is so equipped.
An alternate method is to slide the pants
waistband up over the topper, work in an oscillating motion
side-to-side to ensure no curling of the rear of the waistband,
hold the waistband out taut with either hand, expand the buck
with either thumb or by kicking the floor pedal, and fasten or
clamp the waistband fronts.
Note: If these procedures are
practiced a few times, the operator will accomplish them in a
quick and efficient manner.
6. Smooth the fly area with your finger
tips (if required).
7. Fold the left pleat over so it is lying
in the old pleat crease. Pre-steam for two seconds if pants is
wrinkled.
8. Place the fingers of one hand up under
the bottom of the form against the folded pleat to hold it
firmly in place.
9. Press the button or kick the floor
pedal to bring down the pleat paddle.
10. Form the second pleat using the same
methods used to form the first pleat.
11. Slide one hand down the pleat and
toward the side seam to remove any excess material from the
pleat paddle area. Plain fronts are done the same way with, or
without, the pleat paddle.
12. Start the automatic cycle.
Note: The automatic cycle should be
set for three seconds of steam and twenty seconds of air
drying.
If the unit has been in production, the
pants have been removed from the topper, placed on the legger
press, a new pair of pants placed on the topper as described
above, and the left leg then finished on the legger press buck
(as described later).
While the operator is changing the legs on
the legger press, he/she depresses the foot pedal with the left
foot to pre-steam the pants on the topper.
13. After completion of the automatic
topping cycle, the topper buck will compress automatically, or
the buck will require compression by hand. Grasp the two front
creases together just below the knee area with the left thumb
and forefinger, raising the legs several inches, and then grasp
the two cuffs at their front portions with the right thumb and
forefinger, release the waistband clamp or unbutton or unclamp
the waistband while holding the two cuffs together and let the
pants fall toward the floor while holding them up.
An alternate method is to release the
waistband front clamp or unbutton or unclamp the waistband
front, remove the pants from the waistband with both hands,
place the two front belt loops together with both hands, hold
the waistband front-to-back and “pop” the legs by
throwing them out smartly. The legs will then fall very closely
to seam-to-seam.
Transfer the pants to the legger press.
1. Hold the pants cuffs in the right hand
and let the tops fall toward the floor.
2. Shake the trousers up and down a couple
of times until the pockets fall toward the waistband.
3. Raise the pants with the right hand and
grasp both front creases in the left hand with the thumb on the
leg toward the operator and the fingers on the leg away from
the operator.
4. Turn to face the legger press.
5. Flip the rear creases up and away and
lay the right leg on the legger press.
6. Release the pants with both hands.
First leg lay
1. Flip the top leg off the press with the
right hand.
2. Grasp the crease on the front edge of
the press at the large end of the buck with the thumb on top of
the leg and the fingers under the leg. Grasp the cuff in the
right hand.
3. Position the leg so that the center
seam rests approximately in the center of the buck.
4. Place the palm of the left hand down on
the center seam with the side of the left hand resting against
the crotch seam.
5. Pull the pants gently to the right with
the right hand until the crotch seam is just off the pressure
point of the press.
6. Lay the front crease correctly on the
press and push all extra material toward the rear crease, hold
the leg taut with the left hand holding the top at the crotch
seam and the right hand holding the cuff, apply the vacuum to
hold the leg in place. Release your hands.
7. Close the press head, release the
vacuum, place head into high pressure and begin the automatic
cycle.
Place pants on the topper.
Use the same procedures as in previous
topping up to closing the waistband clamp or fastening the
waistband front.
Second leg lay
1. Place the unfinished leg up on the
press with the left hand.
2. Grasp the cuffs in the right hand with
the thumb under the pants and the fingers on top.
3. Grasp the creases at the front edge of
the press in the left hand at approximately the crotch line,
with the thumb under the legs and the fingers on top of the
legs.
4. Lift the pants and turn the legs over
so that the front creases are lying near the rear edge of the
press.
5. Remove the top leg from the press with
the left hand.
6. Position the leg the same as the
previous leg holding it taut with the vacuum applied. Release
your hands.
7. Close the press head, release the
vacuum, place into high pressure and start automatic cycle as
previous leg.
Return to the topper
Set the pleats and start the automatic
cycle the same as the previous topping operation.
Remove pants from press
and puff iron touch up
and puff iron touch up
1. Place both legs together on the press.
2. Grasp both cuffs with the right hand
with the thumb resting on top of the cuffs and the fingers
underneath the cuffs.
3. Grasp the waistband at the side seam
with the left hand with the fingers inside the waistband and
the thumbs outside the waistband.
4. Lift the pants from the press and move
to the puff iron.
5. Position the pants on the puff iron by
sliding the waistband over the puff iron with the left hand
until the hip area is over the puff iron.
6. Steam approximately two seconds.
7. Release the waistband with the left
hand.
8. Raise the cuffs up to approximately eye
level with the right hand.
9. Grasp on cuff in the left hand and the
other cuff in the right hand.
10. Pull the legs apart and steam for
approximately two seconds with the crotch seam resting over the
center of the puff iron.
11. Move the hands together.
12. Grasp the left waistband at the side
seam with the right hand with the fingers inside the waistband
and the thumb outside.
13. Position the left hip area over the
puff iron.
Steam for approximately two seconds.
Continue with the rest of the hip area.
Note: Steaming the hip area
eliminates the “leave off” mark.
14. Lift slightly with the right hand and
pull gently to the left with the left hand until the pants are
removed from the puff iron.
15. Grasp the cuffs in the right hand and
release them with the left hand.
16. Fold the pants over the left arm.
17. Grasp a pants hanger in the right hand
and slide it up to approximately two inches below the crotch
line making sure there are no leg wrinkles on the outside leg.
If there are some wrinkles, then the
hanger is placed too far upward.
Transfer pants from the legger press
without touch up
1. Grasp the hanger neck with the left
hand. Position the hanger down flat on the pants with the
bottom bar just under the cuffs.
2. Grasp the cuffs with the right hand and
slide the hanger to the left with the left hand until the
bottom of the hanger is approximately even with the crotch
line.
3. Lift the pants with the left hand until
they balance on the hanger and hang.
Topping on the tensioning pants topper
An important advantage of the tensioning
pants topper is the avoidance of crotch wrinkles and use of the
puff iron. Another advantage is the ability to stretch out the
pants legs after they have drawn up and slightly relaxed after
the wetcleaning process. This is accomplished by clamping the
cuffs and applying tension to the pants from top to bottom.
Also, the front pleats are easily set for use by the two pleat
paddles.
Legging the pants can be accomplished by
hand ironing the front and back creases or by completely
legging on the legger press. While hand ironing the creases,
the vacuum should be applied to firmly set them. If the pants
legs require finishing at the inseams or outside seams, the up
air feature on the board is a good assist.
As I advised in my September 2003 article,
the pants legs should hang approximately six inches below the
top to avoid slipping off the hanger while in storage.
Note: My spotting video, “The
Caplan Method of Stain Removal,” which includes my
comprehensive text and handy spotting board reference available
in English, Spanish and Korean (video only in Korean) from the
Golomb Group, c/o Dennis McCrory, 7664 Plaza Court,
Willowbrook, IL 60521, phone (800) 679-5856. A lecture and
demonstration are presented similar to my classes over the
years at IFI and SDA. This video and text are ideal for
training inexperienced spotters as well as a good review for
experienced spotters. Digesting with enzymes, bleaching,
oxidized oil stains and caramelized sugar stains are discussed
and demonstrated. An article on “Removing Spots in the
Cleaning Machine” and an article on “How to
Increase Production in the Spotting Department” are
included in the comprehensive text book.
Also available from the Golomb Group, in
English and Spanish, is my video on step-by-step shirt
finishing which includes my comprehensive text in loose-leaf
form outlining each procedure for single-operator and
two-operator cabinet shirt unit using a cabinet sleeve press.
Proper forming of the collar using heated collar formers is
demonstrated. Each lay is demonstrated for top quality with
very little effort by the operators. Attractive detailing and
packaging of the hangered shirt, padding, steam pressures and
timing are all discussed. A unique wash formula for whiter
whites and brighter colors and removal of grease and body oils
is included in the loose-leaf text book.
My experience with shirts spans over 55
years with US Army as a principal laundry and dry-cleaning
concessionaire at Ft. Meade, MD, where average shirt volume was
approximately 10,000 per day. We were constantly
“sampled” for excellent quality in both finishing
and washing in laundry and drycleaning and in tailoring.
We operated our own 40,000-sq.-ft. plant
for over 35 years.
Stan Caplan has over 35 years experience
in his own high volume dry-cleaning, laundry and tailoring
plant and two package plants with adjoining coin-operated
laundry and drycleaning. Stan is the former chief instructor at
the International Fabricare Institute, the Southwest
Drycleaners Association and various other trade
association-sponsored schools throughout the US and courses in
Canada, Mexico, South Africa, Singapore and Hong Kong. Stan
offers consulting, training and engineering services in all
areas from customer service area to the boiler room since 1981.
His complete system withtotal quality management will produce
maximum efficiency, economy and product excellent quality. Stan
can be reached at 3601 Clarks Lane, Suite 307, Baltimore, MD
21215, phone/fax (410) 358-0870. His e-mail address is stancap100@aol.com.
 |