National Clothesline

n my 33 years of working for NCA, I held the job of garment analyst and assistant school director. One of my functions was researching and testing new fabrics.

I tested many new fabrics in their early development, including ultra suede, amara, gortex, micromattique, spandex, polyurethane, etc. I taught fabrics to drycleaners, museum curators, students at the Fashion Institute of Technology and Marymount College.

One of the most interesting aspects that students enjoyed was the origin and history behind the naming of the fabrics.

Many famous phrases originated from the early development of fabrics. Fabric knowledge and ability to converse with the customer is one of the most important aspects of salesmanship and building customer confidence.

The following are some interesting facets of fabric origin that I came across in my research.

Gabardine. The pilgrims in the Middle Ages who traveled to shrines throughout Europe and the Holy Land wore characteristic garb. This particular fabric worn by the pilgrims gradually became associated with the journey they took. A will filed in 1520 included this bequest: “Unto litit Thomas Beke my garbardyne to make him a gowne.”

Slight variations in spelling produce “gabardine,” a kind of cloth that passed from the religious pilgrims’ vocabulary into general use. It is also interesting to note that the twill weave gabardine fabric worn was sturdier than other weaves produced. Shine was not one of the problems that the pilgrims faced, but drycleaners are facing that problem now.

Threadbare. Artisans of medieval Europe developed great skill in manufacturing textiles. They were able to use short fibers which produced a soft nap on many fabrics. Long fibers like silk called filament yarns produced a smooth fabric. When a person wore a garment for a long period of time the nap wore off and the fabric weave was visible. People were looked down upon when this occurred. The old textile term applies to wearing shabby or worn out clothing.

Too many irons in the fire. Many cleaners collect samples of the old irons used years ago. These irons were heated by putting them on the embers of a fire or a wood burning stove.

The irons stayed hot for a short period of time, so it was customary to use one iron while several were heating. Sometimes the irons heated too long causing the user to burn fabrics. This term became associated with being involved in too many activities.

Dyed in the wool. In the Middle Ages, dyeing was not an art and drab colors were used. Dyes were of vegetable origin and they rarely held their colors after washing. Some artisans made the discovery that they could get a better penetration of dye by dyeing the wool fibers rather than the entire fabric. Colors were more permanent and more uniform. The term became associated with high quality in general.

Mad as a hatter. A popular fabric for hats, felt is wool and animal fibers matted together. Before the felt making machines in 1846, hat makers used the chemical mercuric nitrate. Long-time exposure to the chemical caused hat makers to have twitching muscles, slurred speech and dizziness. In those days they considered the hat makers insane or mad, thus the phrase “Mad as a hatter” became part of the English language.

Denim. In the south of France citizens of Nimes specialized in a fabric marketed as serge de nimes. It was later translated into denim.

Tulle. A soft, net-like fabric was made in the town of Tulle in southwest France.

Shantung. Originated from the province of Shantung or Shandong in China.

Pongee. This is a nubby fabric produced from wild silkworms feeding on oak leaves. This differs from cultivated silk where the silk is smooth.

Dan Eisen recently retired as chief garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after 33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars, consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be reached at (772) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail, Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is cleandan@adelphia.net.