hen a fabric dye or print bleeds or
runs to water or solvent it is known as a fugitive dye. A dye that does
not bleed or run is known as a fast dye. Dye bleeding occurs because
the manufacturer used excess dye, not properly absorbed into the
fabric, or it was not properly set into the fabric. Dye bleeding can
occur from routine spotting, drycleaning or wetcleaning. Dye bleeding
can also occur in normal wear from perspiration or spillage of food and
beverage.
Spotting
Most dye bleeding and
spotting occurs because the spotter applied steam to a fabric and
flushed on the spotting board or into the vacuum. To prevent bleeding
on fabrics with fugitive dyes, spot into a towel. This prevents dye
spreading and also gives an immediate indication of whether the dye was
fugitive by noting the dye on the towel.
Correction: If
bleeding is noticed when spotted, place over towel and vacuum. Use
steam gun while applying vacuum and immediately dry with forced air.
Further correction may require the use of bleach;
different fabrics may require different bleaches. It is also necessary
for the spotter to use a Q-tip when applying bleach to avoid affecting
the color in the surrounding areas. Pre-testing will usually determine
the proper bleach and its safety for use.
Silk. Place the
garment on a towel and over vacuum to avoid spreading dye and bleach. A
common bleach that is effective is titanium sulingphate. Apply Vaseline
on surrounding areas can help prevent migration of the bleach into the
dye area of the fabric.
Apply stripper to a Q-tip and let it partially
dry. This localizes the bleach when applying to the fabric. It is
amazing how close a skilled spotter can come to the color portion of
the fabric without affecting its color. Heat bleach with the steam gun
and immediately flush with dry steam. Use air and vacuum for drying.
Cotton and rayon. Use
the same procedure, but some dye bleeding can be corrected using sodium
hypochlorite or potassium permanganate.
Acetate. In order
to effectively remove dye bleeding on acetate, it may be necessary to
use sodium hypochlorite. Some yellowing may occur and will have to be
neutralized with sodium hydrosulphate.
Dilution and titration. When bleach has to be used but contact with surrounding areas
can not be avoided, it may be necessary to dilute the bleach. This
means the bleach is diluted enough so it can be safely used on the
areas that bled and not affect the base color of the garment. A bleach
such as titanium sulphate can be effective even if it is diluted to a
very light or pale color.
Wetcleaning
Dye bleeding frequently occurs in wetcleaning from
slow agitation of the wash wheel and insufficient extraction. When
Diane Von Furstenberg had problems with dye bleeding on printed dresses
that were washed, I was able to correct most of the bleeding by a
routine wetcleaning cycle followed by a long extraction.
Bath bleaching. When
using bath bleaching to correct bleeding, dilute the bleach bath.
Immerse garment in bath for only a few seconds. This removes bled dye
but keeps the base dye intact. In my analysis laboratory, this method
has been used many times.
Dryside
If dye bleeding starts to occur when applying oily
type paint remover it is advisable to just reclean garment immediately.
Do not allow oily type paint remover to dry on the fabric. Do not apply
steam or water as this will set the dye.
Drycleaning
Bleeding often occurs from hot solvent, a slow
turning wash wheel and insufficient extraction. Pre-spot affected areas
with oily type paint remover and reclean in a routine manner. Use
wetside methods for remaining dye.
Dan Eisen recently retired as chief garment
analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after 33 years with
that organization. He is available for seminars, consultations and
independent garment analysis. He also has published a book, “The
Art of Spotting,” which is an indexed compilation of articles he
wrote for National Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He
can be reached at (772) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail,
Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is
cleandan@adelphia.net.
