Solving your finishing problems
took the topic
on finishing this month because I have been receiving a great
number of problem garments with customer complaints on
finishing. The problems range from shine, loss of finish, poor
hand and feel and improper blocking. With a little
understanding of the fabric and finishing techniques employed
these problems can be avoided and often corrected.
Silk
If your finisher has a problem properly
finishing a silk garment, the problem may be in the cleaning,
not finishing techniques.
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This means that when the finisher steams
or sprays the garment with moisture, the silk will not properly
absorb the moisture and the fabric will not be left with a firm
finish. The drycleaning soap that is left in the fabric gives
silk a soft finish, fine drape with an ability to absorb
moisture. When steamed and pressed the silk will reflect its
natural feel and drape.
A sizing charge in drycleaning also works
well and gives silk the ability to resist wrinkling after
pressing.
When wetcleaning silks, it is also
necessary to use a cationic or non-ionic detergent with a
softening agent. This type of wetcleaning prepares the silk for
proper finishing.
Wool
Customers may complain the wool is not
soft, but is too harsh and coarse. As we discussed with silk,
the same problem can be avoided by using a proper soap addition
in drycleaning. It is also necessary to use cationic, non-ionic
detergents and softening agents in wetcleaning.
When blocking wools, a steaming allows you
to stretch the wool or shrink the wool to proper measurements.
Gabardine
Gabardine is a twill weave fabric
characterized by diagonal ridges. Many fashion designers use
this weave construction in high style and expensive couture.
During finishing, many cleaners run into
the problem of shine by using too much heat and pressure.
Areas of double thickness are susceptible
to shine and the shine can be permanent depending upon the
fiber content.
Shine on wool, rayon, silk and cotton may
be correctable by spraying the shined areas with water and
allowing the fabric to hang dry.
On acetate the condition may be
correctable by spraying with acetic acid and hanging to dry. On
polyester the shine is likely to be permanent. To avoid shine
learn to use a velvet brush or hand pad which allows you to
finish the garment without the problems of shine.
Velvet
I feel that cleaners flatten the pile by
too much handling in finishing. Most velvets come out of
drycleaning looking pretty good and only need a light steaming.
When moisture and pressure contacts the
velvet the flattened pile may be permanent, especially on
acetate. Some light spraying with water and the use of a velvet
brush may restore some flattened pile on some velvets, but
never on acetate.
The only success I have had in restoring
flattened pile on acetate is by using a dry spotting brush and
attempting to raise the pile in the direction of the lay of the
pile.
Acrylic
Stretching on acrylics may be permanent,
but there are certain blocking techniques that can be employed.
When handling acrylic knits I have had success in blocking by
pre-steaming the buck of the pressing machine and then laying
the acrylic knit on the warm surface. I can then block the
garment by hand without worry of permanent distortion.
To attempt to block in stretched areas,
the following procedure can be used. Lay the garment on the
press and create a rippled effect on the stretched areas. Use a
hand iron held above the ripples and lightly steam. This will
cause the fabric to fuse into shape.
Leather and suede trimming
You should not steam leather and suede
trimming as it will shrink and shrivel. Use a dry, warm iron
with no steam.
The steam air finisher you use may also be
too hot for leather and suede trimming. Professional leather
cleaners use lower steam pressure when steaming leather and
suede.
If shrinkage occurs, the condition can
sometimes be corrected by spraying with acetic acid and
stretching the shrunk area into shape. A leather finish is then
applied which keeps the leather supple.
Delustering on acetates
Some acetates will deluster when
contacting water while being steamed.
To correct this, spray with acetic acid,
hang to dry and then dryclean.
Cashmere
Distortion on cashmere occurs when the nap
is disturbed by moisture and mechanical action in spotting.
This condition can usually be corrected by first steaming on
the press and using a velvet brush. A hand iron is then used to
complete the finished look.
Denim
Denim denotes fashion and the look of the
denim is very important to the customer. Some people,
especially in the South, want their denims stiff, boardy and
creased. Up North, they may desire a soft and supple denim.
The look of the denim is created by the
cleaning method you use. In drycleaning, a clear rinse with
sizing and a rinse bath will make the denim stiff. In
finishing, spraying with a sizing and using a hot head press
will add to the stiffness.
A soft feel is created in drycleaning by
using more drycleaning soap. Use light head pressure when
finishing these denims.
A stiff feel in wetcleaning is created by
using anionic detergents and sizing. Dry until 90 percent dry
and press with high heat and pressure.
The soft feel in wetcleaning is achieved
by using cationic soaps, softening agents and drying before
finishing.
Dan Eisen recently retired as chief
garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after
33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars,
consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has
published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is
an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National
Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be
reached at (772) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail,
Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is cleandan@adelphia.net.
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