Techniques for removing ink stains
nk stains are
classified as dryside or wetside depending on the solvent or
substance on which the pigment (dye) is dissolved or disbursed.
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Examples of dryside inks are marking ink,
printing ink, ball point ink, India ink, carbon paper, stamp
padding and some inks used in felt tip magic marker pens.
Wetside inks are dyes dissolved in water
to which is added a setting agent such as gallic acid. Examples
of wetside inks are some felt tip and magic marker pens.
The ingredients of both dryside and
wetside inks which have been described are not complete since
there are many variations.
Inks are formulated for their permanence
in use so even stains from so called washable inks are
difficult to remove.
Success in stain removal depends upon how
long the ink stains have been in the fabric, the fastness of
fabric color and the tenacity of the staining pigment or dye to
the fabric.
Ink stain procedure
Dryside stain removal is the best
procedure to use when attempting ink stain removal. It is the
safest method to use and makes the wetside method easier.
The dryside method requires using oil-type
paint remover, amyl acetate, mechanical action and then
drycleaning.
The wetside stain removal process requires
that you use the proper lubrication, which is using a non-ionic
wetside detergent. These detergents provide the best
lubrication for wetside ink stain removal eliminating the need
for a neutral lubricant.
I would still use glycerin as a lubricant
only for its safety on wools, silks and delicate colors.
An example of non-ionic detergents are
those found in Laundry Targo by Wilson, Laundry Wetspo by
Laidlaw and similar products used by other manufacturers.
Wetside method, except red:
1. Flush-Use water gun to avoid setting
and spreading the stain.
2. Non-ionic detergent.
3. Mechanical action.
4. Flush.
5. Non-ionic detergent plus acetic acid.
6. Mechanical action.
7. Flush.
8. Oxalic acid — Test.
9. Heat.
10. Flush.
11. General formula — Test.
12. Mechanical action.
13. Flush.
14. Rust remover — Test.
15. Heat.
16. Flush
Wetside inks (red)
The process for red inks is similar to the
ink stain procedure outlined above. The only difference is that
we use an additional step of ammonia and non-ionic detergent
with the necessary mechanical action. This step would be used
before using acetic acid and non-ionic detergent.
We would use this additional step because
alkali such as ammonia bleed red inks and dyes more readily
than acids. In cases of delicate colors, however, this step
would be eliminated.
Advanced bleaching for last traces of ink
stains
Hydrogen peroxide, 6% 20 volume
Procedure:
Wet area.
Apply lubricant.
Peroxide and ammonia.
Heat.
Flush.
Acetic Acid.
Heat.
Flush
Sodium perborate and sodium percarbonate
These bleaches are both obtained in powder
form and they are alkaline in nature. They come in many
products including all color safety bleaches for home use.
For proper spot bleaching order the pure
product from your jobber. Use this bleach the same way that you
would use hydrogen peroxide as previously outlined.
Sodium hydrochlorite or chlorine bleach
Dilute 5.25% chlorine with 50% water.
Procedure:
Wet area.
Apply lubricant.
Apply bleach.
Heat.
Flush.
Acetic acid.
Flush.
Please note that this bleach can not be
used on wool or silk.
Pottasium permanganate.
A strong oxidizing bleach that comes in
purple crystals. Wilson Chemical sells a liquid permanganate
for ink removal that is very effective.
Procedure:
Wet area.
Apply lubricant.
Apply permanganate.
Heat.
Flush.
A brown discoloration is reduced by using
either peroxide plus acetic or oxalic acid.
Flush
Sodium bisulphite (reducing bleach).
This is the safest reducing bleach that
can be used for ink stains.
Procedure:
Wet area.
Apply lubricant.
Apply bisulphate.
Heat.
Apply acetic acid.
Flush.
Sodium hydosulphite.
A strong reducing bleach that comes in
powder form.
Procedure:
Wet area.
Apply lubricant.
Apply hydrosulphite.
Heat.
Apply acetic acid.
Heat.
Flush.
Titanium sulphate.
Reducing bleach that comes in a black
liquid.
Procedure:
Place towel under fabric.
Wet area.
Apply stripper with q-tip.
Heat.
Apply rust remover.
Heat.
Flush.
Protein formula or alkali to neutralize
effects of rust remover.
Flush.
Important: All bleaches must be tested for
safety to color and fabric before using.
Dan Eisen recently retired as chief
garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after
33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars,
consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has
published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is
an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National
Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be
reached at (772) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail,
Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is cleandan@adelphia.net.
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