IOne of the most confusing occurrences is the
appearance of stains or discolorations that appears after a
garment is hanging in a closet or stored by the customer.
Obviously the most likely person that customers blame is the
drycleaner who previously cleaned the garment.
Climatic stains
 | ||
Sublimation of dye
Sublimation of dye is a term used to
describe the evaporation of a solid into a gas without passing
through the liquid phase. Gases in the air dissolve certain
dyes. Black, red and blue dyes have a greater tendency to
dissolve. In this gaseous state, the dye re-deposits on another
fabric (usually whites) as yellow stains or streaks.
Mildew
Many fabrics, including those made of
animal and vegetable fibers, are affected by a fungus growth
referred to as mildew. The mildew stain can appear in many
colors including tan, yellow, brown, pink, purple and black.
Warmth, dampness and lack of fresh air combining with starch or
sizing in a fabric present ideal conditions for mildew growth.
Detergent and pre-spotting oxidation
When pre-spotting agents and excessive
detergent remain in a fabric they can oxidize and discolor
fabrics over a period of time. Heat and dampness will
accelerate the oxidation and the discoloration.
Wedding gowns and other fabrics meant for
long term storage should be drycleaned and then given a clear
rinse before storage.
Plastic bags
The use of plastic bags creates poor
conditions for garment storage. Reports of tests taken reveal
the plastic can combine with some finishes on fabrics and
produce yellowing. Plastic bags also have the ability to
confine stagnant and warm air. Moisture, present in the air can
result in an acid condition that can stain and discolor
fabrics.
Fume fading
Fume fading is a color change or color
loss caused by the action of airborne gases found in various
degrees of concentration. These gases are more commonly the
products of combustion from car exhaust and heating with gas
and oil.
Frequently higher concentration of these
gases exist in closets. Darker colors will turn pink or red,
not necessarily evenly. Sometimes fume fading shows up after
the garment has been hanging in a closet or after drycleaning.
In either case there is no way to correct
it. Discolorations may appear after drycleaning or pressing
because the heat used accelerates the action of the gaseous
chemical that has already attacked the dye. The dyes on
silk and acetate fabrics are most affected by fume fading.
Light fading
Exposure to artificial or natural light
can cause the dye on many fabrics to fade or cause a white or
fluorescent fabric to oxidize or yellow.
Moth damage
Moth damage is usually isolated to wool,
fur and leather since animal or protein substances act as a
food for the larvae. Insects that are trapped in the weave of a
fabric eat through most fibers.
Other types of insects can damage other
fabrics. Carpet beetle larvae attack all natural fibers
including silk, wool and cotton. Cockroaches, fleas and other
insects damage other fabrics.
Drycleaning and box storage
Cleaners who promote box storage should
first properly pre-spot and dryclean the garment. The garment
should never be stored stained and not clean since that can
contribute to insect or moth infestation. Moth proofing
products are distributed by a few companies and may be
purchased in several forms.
Correction procedures
Insect staining. The tannin and protein formulas may help, but
last traces of staining may involve bleaching. Hydrogen
peroxide and ammonia are helpful on silk and wool. Sodium
hypochlorite is effective on linens, cottons and other fabrics.
Make sure you follow the bleach bath with acid.
Sublimation of dye. This is usually difficult to correct. Sodium
hypochlorite may be effective. Some commercial products with an
alcohol composition have also been effective.
Mildew. The
use of chlorine bleach or sodium hypochlorite is most effective
on mildew stains. Potassium permanganate is also effective on
mildew stains. It can be used on wool and silk in place of
chlorine bleach.
Pre-spotting and detergent oxidation. Dryclean the fabric again with a high
detergent concentration. Use a clear rinse after the
drycleaning process. Use an overnight soaking with water mixed
with sodium perborate or sodium percarbanate.
Fume fading. This
type of color change is not correctable although dyeing is an
alternative. The results are unpredictable.
Light fading and yellowing of white
fabrics
1. Oxidizing
bleach (sodium perborate or sodium percarbanate).
2. Reducing
bleach (sodium hydrosulphate). Some commercial products combine
sodium hydrosulphate with a fluorescent dye to aid restoration
of white fabrics.
Dan Eisen recently retired as chief
garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after
33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars,
consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has
published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is
an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National
Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be
reached at (772) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail,
Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is cleandan@adelphia.net.
 |