Chemicals for advanced spotting
t the East Coast
School of Drycleaning, I teach courses to experienced spotters
(10 years or more). This course teaches the use of different
chemicals that are not widely used but are effective in
removing some difficult stains as well as correct some fabric
problems.
 | ||
We are not discarding the routine spot
removal methods already learned but merely supplementing them.
These chemicals should be kept on a shelf out of reach from the
novice spotter.
Acetone
Acetone is probably the best solvent for
removing plastic-based stains, but is not generally used. This
is because of its ability to dissolve fibers such as acetate
and triacetate. It is also highly flammable.
It is a clear liquid composed of carbon,
hydrogen and oxygen with an odor resembling peppermint. It can
be purchased in most paint stores and is also found in nail
polish removers.
Uses
1. Instant glue. There are a number of glues on the market,
including Super Glue and Krazy Glue.
These glues bond through polymerization.
The liquid molecules in the glue combine with molecules in the
fabric, forming long chains of molecules called polymers. In
short the glue and the fabric become one. Acetone is useful in
breaking down these glues.
2. Plastic coating transfer. Occasionally you may get a plastic lining
that can transfer and cause staining during the drycleaning
process. Acetone can be used to correct this problem.
Mix one part acetone to one part volatile
dry solvent. Brush on stain and then reclean.
Acetic acid
Acetic acid is useful for correcting many
garment problems. Acetic acid has a close relationship to
vinegar. Vinegar is produced through the action of bacteria on
yeast fermented brews.
Vinegar can be made out of just about any
plant that can be fermented to generate alcohol, which is
subsequently converted into acetic acid.
The hero of the fermentation process is
acetobacter, a small, simple micro-organism that has the
chemical power to transform alcohol into acetic acid. Acetic
acid gives vinegar its pungent smell.
In ancient times it was brewed by
specially trained people who treated it as a sacred substance.
Some people claim it may have been one of
the first human-made medicines. Its antiseptic quality helped
save the lives of thousands of wounded soldiers during the
Civil War.
Acetic acid can be purchased from most
suppliers in various strengths. The strength used for
correction should be 28%. Over 28% will damage the dyes on many
fabrics as well as dissolve acetate and triacetate fabrics.
Uses
1. Delustering on acetate fabrics. When acetate fabrics come in contact with
water and steam it will deluster and discolor. To correct the
problem apply acetic acid to affected area, allow to dry and
reclean.
2. Shine on gabardine. This is a common problem. Spray on acetic acid,
allow to dry and dryclean.
3. Shrinkage on leather and suede. Excessive steaming will cause leather and
suede to shrink. Apply acetic acid to affected area and when it
is soft, stretch by hand. Apply a neutral dressing, allow to
dry and then clean.
Alcohol (Isopropyl)
Alcohol can be purchased in most
supermarkets as rubbing alcohol. Alcohol is a spirit distilled
from fermented sugar and fermented molasses.
Chemically it is composed of carbon,
hydrogen and oxygen. Caution must be used as it can affect many
fabrics especially acetate and silk.
Uses
1. Fusible resins. When the resins transfer from fusible tape or
bonded fabrics, alcohol frequently removes the stain.
2. Grass. It
is the chlorophyll which is responsible for the green color of
the stain. The chlorophyll is usually of two types, one of
which is affected by alcohol and the other amyl acetate.
Sodium thiosulphate
This is the hypo solution used by
photographers. It is purchased in crystal form from chemical
suppliers.
Uses
1. Iodine stains. This medicinal stain reacts well with sodium
thiosulphate. Put some crystals in a towel and form a sack. Wet
the sack with water and then add some ammonia. Dab on stain and
flush with water.
2. Silver nitrate stain. Silver nitrate is an inorganic salt used for
medicinal and photographic purposes.
To remove, add a few drops of iodine to
the stain and leave it on for one minute to convert it to
iodine salt. Flush the stain and then use the method employing
sodium thiosulphate to remove the iodine stain.
Dan Eisen recently retired as chief
garment analyst for the Neighborhood Cleaners Association after
33 years with that organization. He is available for seminars,
consultations and independent garment analysis. He also has
published a book, “The Art of Spotting,” which is
an indexed compilation of articles he wrote for National
Clothesline and NCA over the past three decades. He can be
reached at (772) 340-0909. His address is 274 NW Toscane Trail,
Port St. Lucie, FL 34986. His e-mail address is cleandan@adelphia.net.
 |