Classifying suedes and leathers
lassification of
combinations and trims involves both leather garments made with
combinations of different colored panels of suede or leather
and cloth garments trimmed with suede or leather in single or
multiple color combinations.
Disasters such as color loss, dye
transfer, loss of surface finish and stiffening or hardening of
skins may result if the following classification techniques are
not carefully followed.
Classification of combination and trimmed
items is by:
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• Color of the leather.
• Weight of the leather.
Do the classification as follows:
First, separate the cloth trimmed items
from suede and leather combination items.
Second, separate suede items from leather
items. Separate the cloth items trimmed with suede from the
cloth items trimmed with painted leather. Separate different
colored combination items made from suede from those made of
painted leather.
These separations are necessary because
the allowable cleaning run time is longer for suede and shorter
for painted leather.
Third, separate light colors from dark
colors. Separate cloth items trimmed with light colored suede
and painted leather from those with dark colored trims.
Separate items made from combinations of different colored
panels of light colored suede and painted leather from those
with dark colored panels.
Combinations of light and dark colors on a
single item should be classified as a dark colored item.
This classification is necessary because
the dark colored panels or trims are the determining factor in
selecting the charge level in which the combination or trimmed
item will be drycleaned and the items that will be wetcleaned
together.
The item with a dark colored suede or
leather panel or trim must be cleaned as though it was entirely
dark colored. In drycleaning, the dark colored panel or trim on
an item determines that a higher charge level of the leather
cleaning detergent plus conditioner is to be used.
It doesn’t matter if the garment
also contains light colored suede or leather panels or any type
of cloth. The darkest colored suede or leather panel or trim is
the critical factor in determining the required charge level.
In wetcleaning, this dark panel determines
that the item will be washed with similar items.
Fourth, separate items based on weight.
For example, a stiff, heavy denim trimmed in suede or leather
would not be drycleaned or wetcleaned with a silk blouse
trimmed in leather or suede unless the silk blouse is bagged.
Also, an item that combines various
colored panels of heavy cowhide or pigskin wouldn’t be
drycleaned or wetcleaned with an item that combines various
colored panels of lightweight lamb skin or doe skin. Separating
by weight prevents damage by mechanical action.
Summary
1. The type of leather trim or combination
of an item dictates the run time or wash time; short for
painted leathers and longer for sueded leathers.
2. The color of the suede or leather trim
or panels dictates the required drycleaning charge level of the
leather detergent plus conditioner — higher for dark
colored trim or panels, even if there are also light colored
trim or panels on the same item.
In wetcleaning it determines the items
that should go into a load; placedark trims together.
3. The weight of the item determines the
other items with which it can be drycleaned or wetcleaned
— lightweight items with lightweight items and
heavyweight items with heavyweight items.
Frank Lucenta is president of Royaltone
Co., Inc., a firm that manufacturers the products he developed
to make it possible for any cleaner to safely and profitably
dryclean, wetclean and finish any suede, leather, fur and
trimmed cloth garment. He also wrote related instruction books
that document the process, entitled “Handling Leather and
Suede” and “Cleaning and Finishing Leather and
Suede.” He also teaches small groups of plant owners and
managers how to identify, accept, spot, dryclean and wetclean,
press and recolor suedes, leathers, and furs using his
Royaltone procedures and products. The next Royaltone Leather
training session is scheduled for June 10-11 and Sept. 9-10 at
the Royaltone Suedemate Leather Cleaning Center in Tulsa, OK.
For more information on training sessions or on spotting charts
in either English or Korean, call (800) 331-5506, (918)
622-6677, fax (918) 665-6017, or e-mail frank@royaltone.com. Information is also available on the Royaltone
web site, www.royaltone.com.
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